Unable to get engine and trans separated

[ramok32]

Hello, I'm pulling my engine (1980 euro SC) to get it off to the rebuilder. I got all the bolts undone except the starter allen cap/ bolt thingey as it was stripped. Unable to get it out, I pulled the engine and trans as a whole. I was able to get that stupid allen head thing off the starter and it appears everything is loose but I cannot separate the engine from the transmission. A couple of things come to mind. The car has sat for about 2 1/2 years so maybe the throwout bearing is stuck to the clutch? Also, according to Waynes book, I should be able to slide the clutch lever arm off the shaft... it also won't come off... is that what is holding the whole thing together? It will separate by about a 1/2 to 1 inch but will not budge any farther... any thoughts?? Thanks, Brian

[ChrisBennet]

If you don't/can't remove the smaller of the levers on the clutch lever shaft, the clutch fork won't be able to get free of the throwout bearing. (s that the case?
-Chris

[rcecale]

Did you remove the Helper Spring Assembly, located on the bottom of the engine/transmission assembly?



Also, the search button works wonders. I entered "separate engine transmission" and came up with the following threads.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/search.php?action=showresults&searchid=3034083&sortby=lastpost&sortorder=descending&searchid=3034083&exactname=yes&searchuser=&perpage=25&pagenumber=2

Randy

[ramok32]

Looking at the pic... does that WHOLE ARM come off the splined rod? The helper spring is undone and appears exactly as that pic shows... so there is no tension on the spring it is just dangling there. I just dont know if that arm that the spring attaches to is supposed to come off? Would that make a difference?

[9dreizig]

The arm and spring should just lift off now.. Shouldn't make a difference but you'll want them off so they don't fall off later..

[Tim L]

The first time I separated my transmission the long clutch lever was seized on the shaft. If this is the case you need to get it off so the shaft can turn. You can’t separate the two if shaft is not free to turn.

[Gunter]

Originally posted by ramok32
Looking at the pic... does that WHOLE ARM come off the splined rod? The helper spring is undone and appears exactly as that pic shows... so there is no tension on the spring it is just dangling there. I just dont know if that arm that the spring attaches to is supposed to come off? Would that make a difference?

Get it out of the way; use some penetrating oil and slide the release arm off the cross shaft. Then tape up the splines to protect them. Save the circlip.

Both engine and transmission need to be on a level plain.

I would carefully try some prying and hammering with a big mallet to seperate. It can be a little resistant but they will come apart unless the release bearing is rusted onto the spline of the transmission input shaft

The Allen thingy is called barrel nut.

[DaddyGlenn]

The short arm must be removed and the helper spring disconnected.

The long clutch lever does NOT have to be removed to separate the engine from the transmission. It does, however, have to be able to pivot.

With the starter removed, which I assume it is, you may be able to look through the starter hole in the bell housing and see what if anything is snagging.

[Gunter]

Of course the circlip, position lever and release lever along with the C-spring should come off to prevent damage to these parts.
The point is that you want the release lever out of the way to prevent it from getting damaged while the transmission is moved around.
The C-spring comes off with the release lever.
Use tape to protect the splines on the cross shaft.
Prying and hammering will seperate.

[john walker's workshop]

some of the long arms are pinned and won't just slide off. it doesn't need to come off, but as previously noted, it has to be free on the shaft.