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coolcavaracing.com
 
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Is this part dead?

I am cleaning it up before I fit it back on the car, and noticed that the holes for the ride high adjustment has a lot of corrosion on it. Not having a lot of experience with Aluminium, I do not know if this is so bad that I need to replace it or if it is still acceptable to go back on the car?

What do you all think?






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Pål (Paul) - The Norwegian lost in Finland...
1978 911SC 3.6 | 2001 Boxster S Racing Car | 1966 912 based 911 RSR replica racing car (for sale!)
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Old 05-06-2007, 02:57 AM
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I don't see a problem. The holes look like they are just fine with no visible cracks.
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Old 05-06-2007, 05:16 AM
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coolcavaracing.com
 
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Thank you Wayne. The leading thin edge has a lot of corroded aluminium. Does that edge take a big load? If not then I am not to worried.
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Pål (Paul) - The Norwegian lost in Finland...
1978 911SC 3.6 | 2001 Boxster S Racing Car | 1966 912 based 911 RSR replica racing car (for sale!)
come and follow the Porsche Sports Cup racing fun and me at www.facebook.com/coolcavaracing
Old 05-06-2007, 06:31 AM
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My opinion? I'm totally unqualified to render judgement, but I'd want an engineers thoughts, like Chuck Moreland or one of the WEVO boys myself.
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Old 05-06-2007, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by lateapex911
My opinion? I'm totally unqualified to render judgement, but I'd want an engineers thoughts, like Chuck Moreland or one of the WEVO boys myself.
That is why I posted the question
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Pål (Paul) - The Norwegian lost in Finland...
1978 911SC 3.6 | 2001 Boxster S Racing Car | 1966 912 based 911 RSR replica racing car (for sale!)
come and follow the Porsche Sports Cup racing fun and me at www.facebook.com/coolcavaracing
Old 05-06-2007, 09:49 AM
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FWIW here is another opinion.... the area that takes some weight is at the end of the adj screw, and that area in my opinion looks fine . If your concerned about the area that looks out of shape you could always weld some fresh aluminum there with a TIG welder just to be on the safe side . It does look OK , not perfect but OK.
Old 05-06-2007, 09:54 AM
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Hey Pål!

Let me contribute with...eh.....ehh.....a bump!
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Old 05-06-2007, 10:49 AM
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I knew I could always rely on some good advice from you Markus BTW, How are things with you, the kids and the white 911?
Thank you for the comments Herman. I was also wondering if that part takes any load. If not then i do not think I have anything to worry about..
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Pål (Paul) - The Norwegian lost in Finland...
1978 911SC 3.6 | 2001 Boxster S Racing Car | 1966 912 based 911 RSR replica racing car (for sale!)
come and follow the Porsche Sports Cup racing fun and me at www.facebook.com/coolcavaracing
Old 05-06-2007, 11:41 AM
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+1 on a tig weld. just had a perforation in my high pressure line coming off of the a/c compressor tig welded. friend charged me beer money basically. if you know someone with a tig, i'd go to them rather than pay for a new part..
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Old 05-06-2007, 11:51 AM
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Kroggers,
I brought my car to a welding shop with TIG weld. The guy put a thin piece of aluminum on the out side and put lot of weld on it. Look pretty sturdy. This is for $100 with it on the car. So I don't think it'll cost you much when you already have it off the car.
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Old 05-06-2007, 12:26 PM
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+1. with it off the car, a friend will treat you very well. he asked for $3-4....i gave him $5 and he said he owed me 'another job'. wow.
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To the memory of Warren Hall (Early S Man), 1950 - 2008
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1990 964 C4 Cabriolet (current)
1974 911 2.7 Coupe w/sunroof 9114102267 (sold) 1974 914 2.0 (sold)
Old 05-06-2007, 12:29 PM
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Thank you for the recommendations, I will try to find someone with a TIG welder. But I am still interested to know if that part (or more that thin edge) takes any major load when you are driving the car?
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1978 911SC 3.6 | 2001 Boxster S Racing Car | 1966 912 based 911 RSR replica racing car (for sale!)
come and follow the Porsche Sports Cup racing fun and me at www.facebook.com/coolcavaracing
Old 05-06-2007, 09:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kroggers
But I am still interested to know if that part (or more that thin edge) takes any major load when you are driving the car?
It keeps the torsion bar end cap from coming of. But the end cap is under load from the suspension so it should not move. I THINK the load on this part is zero.
I've seen pictures here when that little part has been broken of by being hit by something and the end cap was still in place.

One thing you could be more concerned with is if the end cap has worn a groove in the crossmember making the torsionbar uncentered in the crossmember.
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Old 05-07-2007, 11:51 AM
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Thank you for the info and reassurance Magnus....

There is some play between the crossmember and end cap, not much of a visible groove but there is a small one. I do not know what the tolerance should be on these parts. How much movement is acceptable? I can not see the groove, but you can feel it with a finger - is that enough to replacing the crossmember??
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Pål (Paul) - The Norwegian lost in Finland...
1978 911SC 3.6 | 2001 Boxster S Racing Car | 1966 912 based 911 RSR replica racing car (for sale!)
come and follow the Porsche Sports Cup racing fun and me at www.facebook.com/coolcavaracing
Old 05-07-2007, 11:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kroggers
I can not see the groove, but you can feel it with a finger - is that enough to replacing the crossmember??
Nah, I'm not sure what tolerance that is acceptable, you might want to do a search on the subject.

The issue is to keep the torsionbar from rubbing on the crossmember, that is more important on bigger t-bars than stock.

The fix is not to replace the crossmember but to add a little weld to the end cap. You might want do welt the crossmember instead if your already going to take it to a welder.
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Magnus
911 Silver Targa -77, 3.2 -84 with custom ITBs and EFI.
911T Coupe -69, 3.6, G50, "RSR", track day.
924 -79 Rat Rod EFI/Turbo 375whp@1.85bar.
931 -79 under total restoration.
Old 05-08-2007, 12:29 AM
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Hmmmm, I will have to do some searching and reading on this. As you probably read on my web site, I am upgrading the complete suspension including larger t-bars, so probably best to do this properly.

One alternative that i was considering is to reduce the play on the crossmember by filling the groove with JB Weld. Do you think it will hold or is this a really bad idea??
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Pål (Paul) - The Norwegian lost in Finland...
1978 911SC 3.6 | 2001 Boxster S Racing Car | 1966 912 based 911 RSR replica racing car (for sale!)
come and follow the Porsche Sports Cup racing fun and me at www.facebook.com/coolcavaracing
Old 05-08-2007, 12:36 AM
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That might be to soft I think.
Clasohlsson has some sort of aluminum welding kit that only uses the heat of a propane torch, kind of like soldering. I have not tried it but I have thought about testing it for a while.
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Magnus
911 Silver Targa -77, 3.2 -84 with custom ITBs and EFI.
911T Coupe -69, 3.6, G50, "RSR", track day.
924 -79 Rat Rod EFI/Turbo 375whp@1.85bar.
931 -79 under total restoration.
Old 05-08-2007, 12:53 AM
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You think JB is softer than aluminium? Could be....

Do you have any more info on that kit? I just had a look at the web site, and could not find it
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Pål (Paul) - The Norwegian lost in Finland...
1978 911SC 3.6 | 2001 Boxster S Racing Car | 1966 912 based 911 RSR replica racing car (for sale!)
come and follow the Porsche Sports Cup racing fun and me at www.facebook.com/coolcavaracing
Old 05-08-2007, 01:23 AM
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Alutite is the product name.
http://www.clasohlson.se/Product/Product.aspx?id=383694

More info in english:
http://www.alutite-world.com/
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Magnus
911 Silver Targa -77, 3.2 -84 with custom ITBs and EFI.
911T Coupe -69, 3.6, G50, "RSR", track day.
924 -79 Rat Rod EFI/Turbo 375whp@1.85bar.
931 -79 under total restoration.
Old 05-08-2007, 01:30 AM
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I will have to go to Clas Ohlson during lunch today

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Pål (Paul) - The Norwegian lost in Finland...
1978 911SC 3.6 | 2001 Boxster S Racing Car | 1966 912 based 911 RSR replica racing car (for sale!)
come and follow the Porsche Sports Cup racing fun and me at www.facebook.com/coolcavaracing
Old 05-08-2007, 01:38 AM
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