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aj88cab's Avatar
 
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Question Valve cover stud backed out

I was removing the valve covers and one of the studs on the lower driver side backed out instead of the nut coming off. Is there anything special to be aware of when replacing this. I was just going to double nut the outer threads and screw it back in. I tried to hand tighten but it's a tight fit. I assume the tight fit is normal, but I don't want to strip the threads putting it back in. Also, any pros or cons on using some locktite (to hold it) or antiseize (to lube it) when replacing?

Thanks
Andrew

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'88 Carrera Cab 3.2 Diamond Blue Metallic - ERP Polybronze Bushings, ERP Monoballs, SW Chip, Bilstein Sports, 930S Steering Wheel, DAS Rollbar, Sparco 5pt Harness, Hunsaker Sport Seats, Dansk Pre-Muffler, MK 1in-1out Exhaust, Magnecor KV8.5 Wires
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Old 05-13-2007, 12:44 PM
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Clean internal and external threads w/carb cleaner spray. Install double nuts onto the stud, then apply a little blue Loctite on the stud threads. Install so the stud height matches the others. Add'l torque isn't needed in this application. It's a blind hole.

Sherwood
Old 05-13-2007, 12:52 PM
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I wouldn't use anti seize. And, I'd investigate the cause. Perhaps the threads on the stud are damaged. You certainly don't want to put that end in the cam tower. I'd think about getting a new one at least running a die along the threads. Clean out the threads in the tower before reinstalling. Only a very light oil is needed and the proper torque. Use locktite if you wish but remember that it is some tough stuff if you need to get that stud out. Heat will help.

Locktite is not a repair for loose threads. Only a thread repair kit will do that.
Old 05-13-2007, 12:54 PM
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Thanks for the quick replies.

The stud threads that came out of the cam tower look fine very clean and smooth. I cleaned the hole and there doesn't appear to be any damage. The outer threads and the nut were a bit corroded and I think caused the problem. A new stud might be a good idea. So much for wrapping up this project today (just like every project).

Thanks Again
Andrew
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'88 Carrera Cab 3.2 Diamond Blue Metallic - ERP Polybronze Bushings, ERP Monoballs, SW Chip, Bilstein Sports, 930S Steering Wheel, DAS Rollbar, Sparco 5pt Harness, Hunsaker Sport Seats, Dansk Pre-Muffler, MK 1in-1out Exhaust, Magnecor KV8.5 Wires
'86 944NA, Sunroof Delete, Track Rat, Full Cage
'72 914 1.7 Guards Red / '02 Audi S4 Light Silver Metallic
Old 05-13-2007, 01:05 PM
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Well, you could wire brush them and reverse the stud in that case. Of better yet, use the die. Most hardwares will have metric dies these days. So will your FLAPS.
Old 05-13-2007, 01:07 PM
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Thanks Milt. I give that a try.
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'88 Carrera Cab 3.2 Diamond Blue Metallic - ERP Polybronze Bushings, ERP Monoballs, SW Chip, Bilstein Sports, 930S Steering Wheel, DAS Rollbar, Sparco 5pt Harness, Hunsaker Sport Seats, Dansk Pre-Muffler, MK 1in-1out Exhaust, Magnecor KV8.5 Wires
'86 944NA, Sunroof Delete, Track Rat, Full Cage
'72 914 1.7 Guards Red / '02 Audi S4 Light Silver Metallic
Old 05-13-2007, 01:09 PM
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And for what it's worth, I just noticed that the nut on the problem stud was the only one of those "oval" type lock nuts, the rest were all the "ny-lock" type with the blue nylon locking ring....coincidence, I think not
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'88 Carrera Cab 3.2 Diamond Blue Metallic - ERP Polybronze Bushings, ERP Monoballs, SW Chip, Bilstein Sports, 930S Steering Wheel, DAS Rollbar, Sparco 5pt Harness, Hunsaker Sport Seats, Dansk Pre-Muffler, MK 1in-1out Exhaust, Magnecor KV8.5 Wires
'86 944NA, Sunroof Delete, Track Rat, Full Cage
'72 914 1.7 Guards Red / '02 Audi S4 Light Silver Metallic
Old 05-13-2007, 01:29 PM
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Wire brush, double nut, no problem.......all is good in Marietta!

Thanks Guys!
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'88 Carrera Cab 3.2 Diamond Blue Metallic - ERP Polybronze Bushings, ERP Monoballs, SW Chip, Bilstein Sports, 930S Steering Wheel, DAS Rollbar, Sparco 5pt Harness, Hunsaker Sport Seats, Dansk Pre-Muffler, MK 1in-1out Exhaust, Magnecor KV8.5 Wires
'86 944NA, Sunroof Delete, Track Rat, Full Cage
'72 914 1.7 Guards Red / '02 Audi S4 Light Silver Metallic
Old 05-13-2007, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by aj88cab
And for what it's worth, I just noticed that the nut on the problem stud was the only one of those "oval" type lock nuts, the rest were all the "ny-lock" type with the blue nylon locking ring....coincidence, I think not
The mechanical lock nuts (versus the Nyloc-type) are especially grippy as they depend on a distorted thread to prevent the nut from loosening. IMHO, they're a little too aggressive in this application. Glad you're back to normal operating conditions.

Sherwood

Old 05-13-2007, 02:15 PM
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