Any G50 owners with a KEP lightweight pressure plate?

[Techno Duck]

Looking for feedback on the KEP (Kennedy) lightweight pressure plate for a G50 car, specifically the 'Lite' version, not the Stage 1. The Lite pressure plate is inbetween stock and the stage 1. Wondering how the pedal feel is compared to stock, i know it will get a little stiffer but i was wondering by how much.

Initially was just going to get a stock Sach's clutch kit but wouldn't mind lowering the weight of the rotating assembly some. I just don't want to adversely affect the clutch feel for something i don't really need. The KEP Lite pressure plate will hold 450ft-lbs compared to stock which i figure is around 350ft-lbs. Despite being a 3.4L i will come nowhere close to needing the extra clamping force..mainly want it for the lower rotating mass.

I had a KEP Stage 1 disc on my 944 Turbo, it increased pedal effort slightly but was still very managable. But that car had a super light clutch to begin with.

I contacted KEP but havent heard anything back yet and only found the pressure plate i am referring to mentioned once or twice in old posts; mostly everything is 915 centric.

[wildcat077]

I have a KEP lightweight flywheel and pressure plate kit in my 89 with a 3.6 , pressure may be a little stiffer than stock but it doesn't take long to get used to it !
Oh , and the myth about stalling at stop signs and traffic lights is just that, a myth !

I had Steve Wong make me a custom chip and according to him, he totally eliminates the stalling issues with his mapping,
although that might be just 3.6 related though, from switching from a dual mass flywheel to a lightweight unit ...

[Techno Duck]

Phil, thanks for your feed back. I imagine your car must rev pretty well! My friend has a '72 with a 3.6; lightened clutch assembly and ITB's, his engine practically redlines when you blip the throttle for a rev match! I may forgo the lightweight flywheel to avoid over doing it, I went down the path of making my street car into a track car with my 944T already so dont want to overdo this one! I read the G50 3.2L flywheel is already fairly light, the lightweights only cut about 3lbs off. Maybe not worth the extra $ for me. The pressure plate is 8lbs lighter than stock which should achieve what i am looking for.

KEP got back to me yesterday, they said that the 'Lite' pressure plate clamping force is 2830lbs; about the same as a stock turbo so the pedal feel should be similar. The Stage 1 pressure plate clamping force is 3300lbs. So it can probably be inferred that the Stage 1 is roughly 15% stiffer than the Lite disc. Hope this is helpful for future readers.

[RichardNew]

The lightweight flywheel may have been the best modification I made. The engine just revs so much faster. I've never had a stalling issue on the street..

Richard Newton
Flywheels, Clutches and Pressure Plates

[wrxnofx]

Techno Duck responded on my other thread about looking for G50 clutch replacement options, leading me to reach out to Kennedy for info on a lightweight pressure plate.

When I inquired to Kennedy about the "Light" pressure plate, their response was that their terminology has changed:

Our Stage 1 is what we refer to as our “stock” load diaphragm.
Our Stage 2 is what we use to refer to as our “Lite” load diaphragm.
We also have Stage 3 and 4.

Our Stage 1 paired with an organic clutch disc is rated for 375 ft. lb. torque at the flywheel
Our Stage 2 paired with an organic clutch disc is rated for 460 ft. lb. torque at the flywheel.

So now I don't know what the hell is the correct one. I don't want to go too light because this is a street car at the end of the day.
Also, is the expectation or requirement that I pair this with an organic clutch disc, or can I use a stock one?

[wrxnofx]

Well, I went with the KEP Stage 1 lightened pressure plate and organic clutch plate and stock flywheel. In removing the gearbox, imagine my surprise to find that I was running the old school rubber-centered clutch yet. Release fork has a casting date of 02/05.

Installed (disregard the wavy washers which I'd removed prior to buttoning everything back up):


I have maybe 60 miles on the new setup so far.
First impressions are that the car is much more difficult to start from a dead stop. There is very little modulation of engaged/disengaged unless you give it some higher revs. Perhaps this is normal and I just need to get used to it. But the bite point is either off or on, nothing in the middle.
Engine is slightly freer-revving but I'm not sure I notice much different of a driving experience.
Downshifts are way easier to rev-match.

My hope is that as things bed in it becomes a bit more forgiving. Not sure if anyone here cares to comment on whether this is a thing or not lol.

[jmd88]

Absolutely love my car with this setup - it's a game changer on my car (88/911/g50). The only consideration is cold idle, and off throttle from high-revs. Toe-heel is the default for keeping everything in the fun zone. As with any lightweight setup in the rotating mass is that you have much less of it. This means, like others have said that it takes a bit of practice for off the line, on the hill and the other spots where clutch feathering is needed. Just takes practice. 10/10.

[shoooo32]

Originally Posted by wrxnofx

Not sure if anyone here cares to comment on whether this is a thing or not lol.

I'll give it a go when you're in town for Checkeditout. I've driven a bunch of 915s with lightened clutch assemblies but no G50s.

[Techno Duck]

I have no complaints with modulating the clutch on my car. The bite i think you are referring to is mostly influenced by the type of clutch disc your using. An organic disc should be the most forgiving. I had a kevlar disc on my LS swapped 951 that was very on/off, but it was a difficult car to stall due to how much torque the engine had.

In my experience, a new clutch does need to bed in over a few hundred miles.

Have you bled all the air out of your hydraulics? That can have an influence on pedal feel and engagement also.

[wrxnofx]

Originally Posted by Techno Duck

I have no complaints with modulating the clutch on my car. The bite i think you are referring to is mostly influenced by the type of clutch disc your using. An organic disc should be the most forgiving. I had a kevlar disc on my LS swapped 951 that was very on/off, but it was a difficult car to stall due to how much torque the engine had.

In my experience, a new clutch does need to bed in over a few hundred miles.

Have you bled all the air out of your hydraulics? That can have an influence on pedal feel and engagement also.

KEP gave me the organic disc.

I haven't bled my slave in a few years. Not sure I understand how a bit of air in the line would cause such a situation. Prior to this I'd never had a problem.

Either way, when I get my new coupler and throw it in there I'll stick the pressure bleeder on the reservoir and bleed it for poop and laughter.