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Install pop out rear quarter windows

This is the closest I can come to writing a "tech article", which, considering the source, is amusing. Please suggest alternate methods if what I've done is heavy handed or stupid and I'll edit as appropriate. FYI, the source is a newbie, former Marine. If you've never been acquainted with such a creature, Marines like to do things like frontal assaults and kick unexploded ordnance. Please forgive the horrible images--my camera was lent out.

The car: 1979 California SC, no a/c

What you need:

1. pop out windows from an older 911
2. hinged latches and white plastic flange that fits between the latch and the headliner. All should come with the windows


3. bottom metal trim which covers the ledge (photo courtesy of island911). This image shows your original, more narrow trim vs the wider, old trim you need:



4. tap for the rear latch holes
5. nut inserts for rear latch holes in the c pillar: M8 exterior; M5 (or less) interior. Note that the holes are untapped and 8mm sized; but the screw which fits through the latch holes is 5mm
6. sheet metal bolts for the latches: M5--can't remember the length but take the latch and flange to the hw store to ensure you have 1/4 inch or so of threads
7. self-threading sheet metal screws for the B pillar holes--I drilled out the holes a bit to M8s, but this was a mistake; I should have used a tap (don't know the size) and the hex screws that came with it. Oh well.
8. headline molding trim (see photo above)
9. b pillar molding trim (see photo above)
10. tap for the c pillar holes--M8 and match the thread



Howto:

1. Remove black vinyl or leather interior trim at the base of the window
2. Remove old fixed windows: no picture, but it's easy. Use a putty knife or box cutter to separate the fat rubber molding in the interior of the window from the glass. Pull away the molding and gently push out the windows.
3. drill out the "spot welds" on the b pillar. This piece of thin sheet metal covers the slots through which the "tabs" of the leading edge of the window will go. I do not believe there's a workaround for this--prior discussions have questioned whether this piece is structurally necessary. All I can say is that it is very thin and I don't really need the extra stiffness in the frame anyway, even if it did add to it. Drill out the "filled in holes" all the way through then take a large flathead screwdriver and hammer and insert the screwdriver between the new piece and b pillar on its leading edge. The piece will quickly pull away from the b pillar and you can pretty easily pull it off. File or dremel around the spot weld holes.






continued...

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2006 Ducati Sport Classic mono SOLD
1979 SCWDP #0020 Talbot Yellow SOLD

Last edited by holtjv; 05-20-2007 at 04:41 PM..
Old 05-20-2007, 04:08 PM
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4. Locate the c pillar holes with your fingers and punch through the headliner with a phillips head screwdriver or whatever. Tap the c pillar holes. If you've never tapped a hole before, buy the tap (ensure you match the threads--I bought an M8 with 1.25), a t-handle, and lubricate the tap prior to tapping each hole. I used wd40.



With the tap inserted:



5. Screw in the nut inserts



6. Install the bottom chrome or anodized trim (you can do this anytime, really). You'll need to drill a hole for the end piece on its leading edge as well as one of the top trim holes. I'm certain this will vary for each car but it's what I had to do.

7. Install latches onto window, if not already done. Take a look at the latch and make sure you have it oriented correctely, with the knob up and the flange which attaches to the window correctly oriented. You'll see what I mean.

8. Gently pull away the interior trip from the b pillar to expose the holes. Drill out the b pillar holes for the size of self-threading screw you bought, or thread the holes for the included original hex bolts.

9. Insert window through the slots and align with the holes. Use a screw driver to move the tabs inside of the b pillar.

10. Screw in b pillar bolts or screws



11. Screw in the rear latch into the c pillar

12. Slide on the window frame headliner molding. I glued it on.

13. Slide on the b pillar molding

14. Installed!



15. Enjoy!

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Warren Hall (Early S Man), 1950 - 2008
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2006 Tri D675 Scorched Yellow
2006 Ducati Sport Classic mono SOLD
1979 SCWDP #0020 Talbot Yellow SOLD
Old 05-20-2007, 04:10 PM
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threads referenced:

Fixed rear quarter window?
Rear quarter window Modification


Many thanks to spyderman for selling me the kit--everything I needed.

Any questions feel free to PM or post.

Regards,

Jack
__________________
Warren Hall (Early S Man), 1950 - 2008
------------------------------------
2006 Tri D675 Scorched Yellow
2006 Ducati Sport Classic mono SOLD
1979 SCWDP #0020 Talbot Yellow SOLD

Last edited by holtjv; 05-20-2007 at 04:26 PM..
Old 05-20-2007, 04:20 PM
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Jack can you email me your tele # so I can call you and save typing for an hour. My email is:
bobf@design-associates.us

Thanks a lot! Bob
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Old 06-27-2007, 02:01 PM
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Kewl....thanks for sharing....

I'd love to do this to my '88 Carrea but it's so choice, I
cant bring myself to do something like this.....
Old 06-27-2007, 02:49 PM
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Old 07-30-2007, 01:19 PM
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I wonder if this can be retrofitted into a 964.

-Don
Old 04-25-2013, 12:59 AM
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One thing to note to others rounding up the parts to do this - the white plastic edging along the headliner shown in the above post may not be available - if you check the 1973 pet this edging is black and comes in a roll, it's often seen on cars around the door opening.

It's a u-shaped rubber channel that has metal embedded in it so it clamps itself around a flange.
Old 04-25-2013, 03:54 AM
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BTW - To the OP - Thanks and great tech article!
Old 04-25-2013, 03:56 AM
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Thanks for the post...

I want to add these as part of my backdate, but it is more involved than I thought it would be. It looks like I need to round up a few more parts!

Nice DIY - this will prevent some trial and error that could have ended badly.
Old 04-25-2013, 05:43 AM
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The windows I received didn't come with the plastic spacers. Does anyone know if they're still available?
Old 07-29-2014, 07:31 AM
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This is excellent.

Jonny042 brings up a good point.

I believe the fixed window installation eliminated the need for welt covering the flange at the top and front of each window opening. Pop-out equipped cars used a black welt on the b-pillar flange and off white welt along the headliner flange.

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Old 07-29-2014, 08:10 AM
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Great write-up.

I would be curious to know if you get any water in the window (especially when washing the car). My '74 has pop out windows and I get a small amount of water when I am washing the car. I don't really get any during a rain storm. I've always wondered if this is normal.
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Old 07-29-2014, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techweenie View Post
This is excellent.

Jonny042 brings up a good point.

I believe the fixed window installation eliminated the need for welt covering the flange at the top and front of each window opening. Pop-out equipped cars used a black welt on the b-pillar flange and off white welt along the headliner flange.

I got everything in one shot, and the welt covering is all in 1 piece and it's black. I never noticed because my headliner is black.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Tidybuoy View Post
Great write-up.

I would be curious to know if you get any water in the window (especially when washing the car). My '74 has pop out windows and I get a small amount of water when I am washing the car. I don't really get any during a rain storm. I've always wondered if this is normal.
When I wash my car, if I stand at the rear wheel and spray directly toward the back corner of the window, I can see a small puddle start in the space between the lower window trim and window seal. Since then, I spaced my rear hinges a little tighter and no more water.
Old 07-29-2014, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techweenie View Post
Pop-out equipped cars used a black welt on the b-pillar flange and off white welt along the headliner flange.
Anyone have a part number or source for the window pinch welt?

I'm thinking of using this which appears to be the same sort of thing for Beetle pop-out windows. $20 for 2 - 75" pieces.

https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C16-113-131B-BK



Old 08-07-2014, 05:01 AM
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I ended up buying some pinch welt from Jbugs.com, it was about $25 shipped for a roll with enough to do both side and plenty to spare.

Black Pinch Welt, (Seal clips on body) Fits All Years. - JBugs.com

This is what it looks like





And installed






I cut a slit in the top pinch weld so it would run past the vertical piece
Old 08-14-2014, 07:23 AM
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When I purchased my 912, it did not have the rear quarter window trim sill. I just bought a set as well as the special screws from Pelican. Is there a rubber/weatherstrip piece that goes in between the sill and the quarter window frame? If so, any idea what the product number is, or name?
Old 05-05-2015, 07:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brett Voigt View Post
When I purchased my 912, it did not have the rear quarter window trim sill. I just bought a set as well as the special screws from Pelican. Is there a rubber/weatherstrip piece that goes in between the sill and the quarter window frame? If so, any idea what the product number is, or name?
With the aluminum trim (68-on), there are small rubber discs/donuts for the screws to keep from denting the aluminum trim when attaching it. Also there's often a bead of dum-dum type material in there...
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Old 05-05-2015, 07:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techweenie View Post
With the aluminum trim (68-on), there are small rubber discs/donuts for the screws to keep from denting the aluminum trim when attaching it. Also there's often a bead of dum-dum type material in there...
These are not the best images (scanned photographs) but I hope somebody will find them helpful.

Oddly, there were both white and black bits of dum-dum / butle tape under there.













Tim K
Old 05-06-2015, 08:51 PM
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After doing an AC delete after getting the car, it became quickly evident that the flow thru ventilation is poor compared to an early car, so I bit the backdate bullet.

Today a good friend/skilled mechanic and I completed the backdate on the '82. A few thoughts. Rather than using self tapping screws which are not too robust, we ended up cutting threads in the B pillar and using screws. It was a real PITA since extra drilling was involved to provide enough space for the screws but it is now very stout.

For the rear latch, we ended up drilling the existing mounting holes and using riv-nuts. See pic.


Since no vendor had all the hardware I needed (seals, missing latch, mounting hardware) I used pelican and Aase.

I ordered the welting named above and it was perfect. The only change I made was cutting channels on the vertical pieces which are then nicely hidden by the horizontal. So the welting on the B would lay flat, I notched it on the inside which you can't tell by looking at it from either outside or in.


I still need to paint the body trim pieces, so I just installed without, filling the mounting holes with body color paint. Also need to paint the used frames, but that will be another day.

Considering the precise thread tapping and drilling needed for the taps and riv-nutsLbbgngnnhnh <-cat typing, it takes some good skill to do it right, which are two notches above my level. Breaking off a tap I can do no problem.

This is the result






Total time was 6 hours.

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Last edited by RSBob; 08-29-2016 at 04:29 PM..
Old 08-18-2016, 03:48 PM
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