Starter or Ignition Switch?

[lespaul]

I turn the key and the starter does not turn. Just a click. I checked the batteries and they are fine. I checked the ground strap and cleaned it, and it is fine.

From 101 Projects, Haynes and this forum, it seems like the problem is either a) bad ignition switch or b) bad starter.

I read in Haynes that one can run a cable from terminals 30 and 50 on the starter to see if the starter turns. I presume one of those terminals is the solenoid/ingnition switch terminal and one is the battery power connection to the starter. I am a little concerned about messing around with trying to connect the two terminals in a tight space with live battery power and either welding something to the frame or burning out a chunk of my electrical system. Should I try this? Has any one done it? If so, do you have pics? What is the step by step procedure?

Or should I just replace the electrical portion of the 34 year old ignition switch first. Seems like it will go someday anyway. If that does not work, it must be the 34 year old starter.

Thanks

Brad

[Gunter]

It's easier than that.
Gears in neutral, raise the car securely.
Ignition on, climb under and jumper from the main Solenoid connection (Black and red wire) to the spade for the wire from the ignition switch.
Expect a small spark and noise when the Solenoid kicks in.
Remember that the starter can only turn if the Solenoid energizes (Moves the starter into the ring-gear)
If it cranks, your battery is good and the ignition wire/lock is suspect.
If it doesn't crank, have the battery tested.

[lespaul]

Thanks Gunter.

Just so I am clear, exactly where is the "spade for the wire from the ignition switch"?

Brad

[911pcars]

The spade connector on the solenoid from the ignition switch contains a yellow wire (from ign. switch). For safety purposes, use a remote starter switch. Merely a momentary switch with two jumper leads; one to battery terminal on solenoid, the other to the aforementioned connector. Perform this inspection with the ignition in the OFF position and in Neutral.

The "start" position of the ignition switch receives the most wear, thus it wears out first. If the engine cranks with the remote switch at the solenoid, try doing the same with the yellow wire disconnected at the switch. Find source voltage at a red wire on the switch (basically bypassing the switch). If both attempts work, the circuit is good from the yellow wire to the solenoid and it's probably the ignition switch.

You could also check the switch with a voltage drop test. Let me know if you want that procedure.

Sherwood

[lespaul]

Thanks Sherwood.