Like in a doctor case... go to another shop for a second opinion before doing a thing. P-cars are very easy to work on - when you know them - but if don't know them they could become a b--ch pretty quick.

I took the car for another alignment today.....to a shop recommended by my mechanic.

Right off the bat I felt like this guy knew what he was doing. Two nuts were loose on the left strut tower for starters! The tar on the mounts was not a problem at all either.

Front end camber was adjusted to -1.25 on both sides and everything tightened up. After tightening up the strut bar (no preload) and making a small tweak to the toe (which included him sitting in the car to center the steering wheel), the readings were back to the original specs!

Looked like he would have to start over....but he was out of time today. No charge and we made plans to check it again next week when he had more time.

So I drove home and the car has no noticeable pull now, and brakes straight. Would sitting in the car throw out the specs that much?

Anyway, I'll drive the car over the weekend and see, but it looks like the front end is aligned. Now, to adjust the rear? How much with -1.25 on the front....-1.5?

Where did you take it?

>>>I bet the strut bar install has caused the problem......probably has shifted.<<<

There was a thread a few weeks ago discussing the likelihood of this happening with the JM Pro strut tower brace. Even with shims or washers, it's questionable IMO (as are most bolt-on braces). You're introducing lateral force against the 'camber bolts' that they were not designed to accommodate. The factory mounted their strut tower braces directly to brackets welded to the towers.