Cheap Brake Bleeder

[Porsche_monkey]

I made this up because, well, because I'm cheap.

I had a pressure bleeder for my old car, but the brake fluid cap open the new Cab didn't seem to be begging to be butchered, so I went the vacuum route.



I just connect the end of the rubber hose the bleeder screw, connect a shop-vac to the top of the Tide bottle and then open the bleeder screw a crack. My assistant will keep the reservoir topped up while I remove the old fluid.

I also use this to vacuum out the fluid in my power steering pump from time to time as a way to keep the fluid fresh.

[pmajka]

I am so saving my next bottle of detergent......Now i can bleed my Truck too.

[Quicksilver]

The down side of the vacuum route is that it can pull air around the caliber seals and the master cylinder seals. Those seals are designed to contain a positive pressure so the pressure actually adds to the seal's sealing force. If the seals (or the seal's design) is marginal don't be surprised if it pulls air into the system.

Also if you are using a vacuum bleed setup and are relying on watching the clear tube to see if all the bubbles are out of the system, you will commonly get a stream of air bubbles leaking around the threads of the bleeder. These bubbles aren't in the hydraulic system but it does make it hard to be certain that you are done bleeding.

[Porsche_monkey]

Yes, the bubbles are misleading. And my hose does not fit tight enough to cause leaks around the seals, so I see bubbles during the entire bleeding process, even when I know I'm done.

I just watch for the clean fluid to arrive and I know I've changed all the fluid.

I used this set-up after I rebuilt my rear calipers. I was nervous because I've read several threads where people had trouble bleeding after rebuilding the rear calipers. Mine took about five minutes per side, and they are solid, there is no air in the system.