New Member - First Upgrade Question
 

Hi everyone. New addicted owner and member here. I picked up my 1980 911SC Targa about a month ago and have yet to stop smiling. Pelican and the forum has been great in getting me started with information and my first upgrade. Thanks.

I currently am installing the OEM short shift kit and Wevo coupler and new bushings all the way around. I have searched extensively for info, but have one questions.

1) Lube - The 101 Projects and Pelican Tech directions say to use Lithium Grease, but I also saw some mention using a synthetic like Vav Synpower as the Lithium breaks down over time and requires re lubing. Being from a small town Synpower is not easy to come by. Any other recommendations or is the Lithium good enough.

2) Cone Screw on the shift Coupler: I am trying to remover the old coupler but the Cone screw is on extremely tight and I have yet to get it to budge with a pretty good amount of force. I have a replacement, but do not want to cause any other damage. Any suggestions? Is this normal or any I dealing with a possible cross
thread issue.

Thanks in advanced for the help. Attached is a photo of the new family member.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1180713030.jpg

Hi. Can't offer any support other than welcome. Others will come to your aid.

Superb Targa...the color is awesome...Welcome...!

Beautiful car! Welcome aboard! Good luck with your first project, wish I could help!

Welcome!!

I see no one has answered yet, so I'll take a stab.

1) If you can't find Synpower (Autozone and the like cary it, NAPA maybe) look for something that says it has Moly in it. Jot down what you find and look it up on the internet. Or, if you don't mind waiting a few days and want the peace of mind that you got the "recommended stuff", order some Redline, etc. online.

2) My cone screw was in VERY tight. I had just about given up hope, and said F*&$ IT, and gave one last go at it, and it broke free. Not suggesting you force it out, just lettign you know they are notoriously tight. Hit it with PB and let it soak, then spray it again (like soak over night). Make sure you have a correct fitting allen head... you don't want to round it out and make more of an issue. I find the best kind are the ones that are fitted into a "socket", and then fit your socket wrench. With a normal allen key, you'll never get the leverage you need.

Another tip or 2, some of the bushings should be warmed up in water before trying to press them in place (the one for the shift rod for sure.. it's a tight fit). Read up on the shift linkage adjustment when you are done, and do it with the dust boot off so you can view the clearance you have for the reverse lockout tab.

Good luck!!!!

Great looking car!

If you strip out the head of the cone screw, or just can't get it out, don't worry. Since you have a replacement you can drill it out, just watch how deep you go. If you don't care about saving the stock coupler (you'll want to throw it away after the WEVO is in there anyway) use a bit large enough to take the threads w/ it.

Sorry, no advice - but I am watching to learn from your post as well. Beautiful car. I too think you picked the right color - but, is that Rubinrot (Ruby Red), or a different red. It looked a little different to me, but it may have been the lighting in your pic.

Deifintely looks like grey beige interior, which is also what I have. A couple of weeks ago, I saw another Ruby Red Targa in Kingston Springs, TN at a 356 show. It too had a grey beige interior, but it was basically "as new". Wow, what a difference between that one and mine. Made me think about redyeing my seats!

Welcome!

on the cone screw as someonesai earlier try PB. (PB Blaster). Available at most automotive stores.

http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/upl...bpenetrant.jpg

Thanks for the help everyone. That cone screw was a pain, but I got it out with one last effort without stripping it. I picked up some vavoline lithium #2 with moly and it seemed to work out well. We will see how long it last. The 22 mm locknut on the side of the house was a real pain as well to get off. I ended up using my torque wrench to have extra leverage and it finally released. I am the type that strip screws and bolts often, so I am a little on the cautious side. In the end everything released with no stripping. :)

The shifter is put back together and ready to go back in the car. I used two quick-grip clamps to compress the springs down with the plate with screwdrivers as a guide. The shift pivot housing was a bit of a pain and needed to be squeezed with pliers to get the clip on. I am hoping it holds.

Toddu, thank you for the tip. I was just struggling trying to get the shift rod bushing in. I was ready to chuck it when I saw your post. Once that is in, everything will be going back in the car and I'll start the adjustment process.

As for the color, I am still trying to figure that out. It is either Ruby or Wine red. I am thinking wine, but could be wrong. It is the original paint, I just haven't been able to find a picture of each color to compare. The interior is Brown/Beige.

What is your paint code?

I am still trying to find that out. The previous owner, a friend, swears that it is the original paint, but I am unable to locate the sticker. He was the second owner and a trust worthy guy. Is there any other way to find out the orignial color without going through the Porsche COA route?

Well, I completed the instal of the short shift kit, new bushings and WEVO coupler. The shift rod bushing was a real pain, but after I took a break and became a little smarter, I figured out to stick it between my handy Quick Clamp, heat it up and start clamping down. It worked beautifully and I did not have to fight the bushing from slipping out.

In the end, all I can say is WOW. The shifting is incredible. Going from 2 to 3 I have to adjust to a little bit, but other that that it is smooth, direct, and right on. A recommended upgrade as so many others have found out.

Where are you located.

Vermont