Window now chooses not to operate

defcon65 · 06-11-2007, 01:47 PM

I took off the door panel to repair the latch assembly. I removed the window switches and labelled the wires and points of attachment copiously with a cipher I was inspired to devise after watching 'Zodiac'. I also made a rudimentary sketch of both assemblies and wire clusters, inspired by Wylie Coyote's fine diagrams in the Roadrunner cartoons. I put it all together. The passenger window does not open. I jiggled, I checked, I fiddled, I cursed. Everything is the same, yet I distinctly remember both of these windows opening like another Starbucks. What gives? Secret fuse? Giant knife-switch to throw in smuggler's box? My incredible bad luck to have things break spontaneously by barely touching them? Who can shoot me a troubleshooting procedure?
I have a high-tech HF multitester purchased for $2.99. These new switches are what, about $40 or something? I'm into urban engineering, lay it on me, give me the chewing gum and duct tape fix.

Thanks for any replies.

Wavey · 06-11-2007, 02:02 PM

Since you said "switches" I assume you were working on the driver's door. Have you tried opening it with the switch on the passenger door? My driver door switch for the passenger window occasionally stops working. If I try the other switch it clears things up and the left switch works again. If that doesn't work, try more cursing.

Paulporsche · 06-11-2007, 02:08 PM

In my car, there are connectors that go to ea switch, of course. But there are also connectors to these connectors, farther back into the door. Smart, huh? I don't know if this is factory or some PO's cruel joke. Anyway, check for current @ the final connectors for ea window. If not there, you may have a broken wire or a disconnect.

defcon65 · 06-11-2007, 02:11 PM

Yeah. Both passenger window switches do nothing. Driver's window opens A-OK. Up, down, your choice. Passenger window comes down like a nun's knickers.

DanielDudley · 06-11-2007, 04:08 PM

Probably inside the switches. Both? Yes.

Mysterytrain · 06-11-2007, 05:38 PM

Hey Joe..Here is a link to something I posted awhile back. It might helpyou out.
Power Window Switch schematic

You really need a meter to help you troubleshoot this problem but you are halfway there because you have power coming into the door.
You needto see 12 volts on pins 3 and 5 of the driver's side passenger switch. Those two connections then direct power to the passenger door switch. Check the crimp on the spade connectors. Make sure you didn't flip the passenger switch. Keep us posted.

John Leaman · 06-11-2007, 06:58 PM

When you use the switch for the non operating window, do hear a change in noise level of the door open buzzer??? Anything that would give you a clue that there is an additional load on the system. Window trying to open but can't. If you think the motor is trying to open, remove the top speaker on the failing door and in your factory tool kit there is a hex extention. Cut the plastic vapor shield stick hex bit in and roll that baby down. My window stopped working and after I used the ole manual method for lowering once, everything worked again. If you take a look at a wiring diagram you see that on the driver side the switches for both windows are connected. So it could be a problem with power going from driver window switch and not going to the passenger side.
Good luck.
Cheers JR