Mapp gas?

[chrisf]

I know that oxy-acetylene is advised for use in the removal of exhaust studs.

But I don't think I will have access to a setup without loading my engine up & hauling it to a shop.

My buddy suggested trying a mapp gas setup. Bottles are availible at lowe's for under $10, and its basically the same setup as with a propane bottle. I've read that some torches will produce heat of 2000 deg F.

It seams like this would be hot enough to loosen up some studs.

Has anyone used anything aside from oxy-acetylene?

Chris

[Rot 911]

Lowes sells a set up that uses a mapp gas and oxygen tank with kind of a mini welding torch and hose. I think it was only $30.00 or so. I used it successfully on my '72 exhaust studs. The down side is that the oxygen tanks don't hold much and as I recall I used up 3 of the oxygen tanks to one mapp gas tank.

[jbrinkley]

mapp only burns at a slightly lower temp then oxy acet.
it'll work.

[Mo_Gearhead]

I.M.O. For someone that just needs 'heat' occasionally for loosening studs/bolts etc., or for brazing, go for the lesser cost Mapps gas sets.

[kplackmeyer]

+1 on the MAPP/O2 setup. Have one, and it works well for occasional brazing and torching.

[chrisf]

thanks for help guys.

I've got 6 studs left in the heads. Original, w/ the narrow tapered section between the threaded portions. I got a good grip on one last night w/ a vice grip & started to turn and could see that thing twisting, but it was not turning out of the head. So I stopped.

Wish me luck, I hope this doesn't get to nasty.

Any one got one of those drill guides they want to lend/rent or sell?

~Chris

[SP2]

I used the small Mapp canister type torch from Home Depot, etc and got all of my exhaust nuts cherry red before removal. The key is to have the allen head in position and as soon as you get it cherry red, torque the nut off. If you let it cool for even a few seconds it is less likely to work.

[kach22i]

I bought one of those mini Mapp gas set up's last year. Will someone provide me a link on how to heat things up for stud removal. I've not done it before and feel I need an article of sorts.

[JP911]

Originally Posted by chrisf

thanks for help guys.

I got a good grip on one last night w/ a vice grip & started to turn and could see that thing twisting, but it was not turning out of the head. So I stopped.


~Chris

In my experience, this is what happens right before the stud breaks. If you've twisted it, then the metal is weakened and will likely snap. Not your fault though, it's just inevitable. I hand drilled several studs without a jig and while it wasn't fun, it really wasn't all that bad. Track down the jig and you'll be just fine.

[Superman]

The jig is great. Patience is KEY.

For those studs that might still behave, get the nut CHERRY RED and then quickly put the wrench on it and turn slightly clockwise first, then unscrew. The MAPP/OXY setup is very nice. The very small nozzle that comes with that kit is a nice size for those exhaust nuts. They will be CHERRY RED in a short time.

[chrisf]

bear with me....just to clarify, exhaust off, all nuts off, & the engine is sitting upside down, on a table back at the house....Monday night, I will try double nutting on the studs, with a box end on the lower nut. I'll tighten the nuts against each other, heat the head as hot as I feel solid about.....mabye rap on the end of the nut lightly with a hammer,.....reheat & then try to back the stud out....?

Or should I try just gripping with a vice grip & backing off that way?

For almost the past two months, I've been at points where if I proceeded & messed it up, I could always just go back, & put it all toghether & it would run.....

I feel as if this is a point of no return.....But then again, come monday aftenoon, that **** will hopefully be glowing red hot!

suggestions?