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Sway bar upgrade discussion
During my last autocross, I becam aware of how much my '78SC was leaning.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1181666579.jpg So I've been looking for a used adjustable rear sway bar. While doing a little research (using the search feature) I discover the idea of using stock bars from an '86 (22mm front and 21mm rear). Which sounds cheaper. So my questions are: Is this a good set up? How will my handling change? Will I need to change anything other than the bars and drop links? Anything else I should think about? Thanks, |
WOW!!! Are you on two wheels?
The Carrera sway bars are a good upgrade and probably gives you the most bang for the buck. The ultimate would be adjustable sway bars such as the ones from Smart Racing. These will allow you to change your suspension "sway" for different tracks/ courses. For instance you could make the rear soft so you get more bite to excelerate out of a corner or stiffen them if there are a lot of high speed corners, and so on. You could also dial them back for street driving. |
Thanks Jeff.
Do you know if it is only the ones from '86 that will bolt on or are there other years that will work? |
Glenn,
First, start with this excellent explanation of the principles involved by John Luetjen. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-autocross-track-racing/174212-why-lifting-front-wheel-bad.html?highlight=sway Next: if your issue is excess roll, you should start with larger torsion bars and then add the antiroll bars to fine-tune everything. Smart Racing bars are the best, period. (Charlie bars are VERY hard to get) |
Interesting link, John.
Perhaps you are correct about doing the t-bars first. But.... I have a tight budget and even less time to work on the car so I'll try the relatively cheap and easy sway bars first and do stiffer t-bars and polybronze bushings etc later. |
Here is a similar thread you might read.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-autocross-track-racing/350664-body-roll-please-help.html
My understanding is you really need to do the tbars first. Your budget may be tight but if you tear the sway bar mounts loose then your budget won't mean much. |
Thanks Jerry....But....... I've read the cross referenced posts from this thread and a few others and I don't see the drawback to doing sway bars first. I had planned on reinforcing the rear sway bar mounts so that is a non-issue.
Over the next year or so, as budget and time permit, I want to add to the suspension upgrade with T-bars (21 front and 28 rear), Polybronze bushings and swapping "Sports" for the "HD" Bilsteins on the rear. Of course a lowering with corner balance is planned, too. I realize this is not the optimum solution. But, will adding Carrera sway bars NOT reduce my body roll and improve my handling? |
I personally think the combination of softer torsion bars with adjustable, stiffer sway bars is a good combination...idea is to reduce the roll while maintaining all the fillings in your teeth.
If you check out books like "How to Make Your Car Handle" by Puhn, you'll find that he feels that the best bang for the buck is stiffer sway bars first, and then on to stiffer torsion bars and shocks . I did all at once, 21mm front torsion bars, 27mm rears, Smart Racing antiroll bars and I must admit I regret stiffening the suspension as much as I have. My car is pretty light (around 2600 lbs) and things are just stiffer than I like on what passes for roads up here. If I could do it again, I would first put on the sway bars, then up to Polybronze bushings and then if I still didn't like the handling, then on to stiffer t bars. But then again, what I consider too stiff may be just fine for someone else..... Dennis |
I purchased a set of tarretts last year for my 87 911. Loved them for AutoX and DE's. Best suspension upgrade you can buy for your 911, IMHO.
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Quote:
Frank |
Recently had the rear sway bar mount snap off the body....the body roll was very noticeable....after getting it repaired....ALOT less body roll and it was easier to snap out the rear when needed with the GO GO pedal...
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Glenn,
You can use the 86-89 sway bars. The 87-89 bars differ only in having a section in the middle that is a little lower to accommodate the G50 transmission. If I were you I would replace both front and rear sways. Stock SC is 20mm front and 18mm rear. 86-89 is 22mm front, and 21mm rear. The only problem with doing the front is you will need to get the front wheels aligned as well, and that really increases the cost. But if you haven't replaced your ball joints already then you need to do that anyways, and can do that at the same time. I bought front and rear sways from an 87 for under $200 including shipping. I installed the rear right away, and it is only a few minutes to swap them out. Another Pelican now has my stock rear on his early car. I haven't done the front yet because the last time I made an order Pelican was out of some of the parts I need to replace my ball joints. I need to make another order soon! |
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