Get in. Turn Key. *click* - UPDATE
 

Well, dang.

Wife and I decided to go out to donner tonight. Got it, started up, no problem.

Ate dinner, got back in, turn key, and *click*

Battery was dead. Or soemthing.

Now, I know I didn't leave the lights on because I didn't use them on the way there.

We got a jump from some nice guy. It worked, although barely (how the f&ck to put the jaws on that batery?):mad: :mad:
Left headlight was out...was working before.

Drove home, just fine. No dimmness, so I'm sure it's not the alternator.

Got home, shut off, tried to start again
*click*

and the alarm went off...

First time this has happened. Any ideas?


UPDATE

OK, so the problem is fixed.

I called John Walker this morning, who suggested I pull the battery out and bring it to him for charge/test.

When I went to pull the battery out, the alarm started going off. I had power again. Obviously, I'd bumped something. The Green "thing" hidden in the darkest parts is what it was. Quick release doo-hickey for the ground, or something. Give it a twist, lights go dead. Give it another twist, alarm starts up.

So, out it goes, on the advice from JW.

No real problems at all, it turns out.

:D

Reading you post, first thing I thought was the famous starter beause I just had it. But at the end *click*, I think it's must be the batery or the alternator (most probably the batery) because *alarm went off*. If your batery is low, most after market alarm will go off. Why don't you get your multimeter out to masure your voltage accross your batery.

may just be dirty battery posts.

I did. Reading 12.84

It's a DieHard. Huge monster. If it is indeed the battery, what is the reccomended replacement?

http://www.wolfetone.com/911/battery/1.jpg
http://www.wolfetone.com/911/battery/2.jpg

Clean as a whistle.

I replaced that monster with an interstate. I'm actually researching odessy batteries right now to move to the smugglers box. Too bad timing isn't better. You could have my interstate.

Sorry I can't help you, but i'm impressed by the size of your battery.
Any ill effects from having such a large battery?
Did you need any mods to fit it in place?

thanks and good luck

Make sure they're tight too.

Did you get to a good temp on your drive? Its always possible that the starter is harder to crank when warm, and your battery can't do handle the job anymore, even though the voltage would look just fine.

I bet it starts up just fine tomorrow when it's cold.

Ahh, I can buy a battery no problem.

My wife says "your timing isn't off...it's an electrical issue..."
:rolleyes:

Came with the car. BOught the car March 16th.



Connections are tight.

We went about 15-20 miles. Temp was at the bottom mark. It rarely gets above that. Seems to be a fairly cool running car.
This is the first time this has happened. Mind you, we just went on a very HOT, and LONG drive about two two weeks ago...searing tempuratures...no problem then.

Mine did the same thing today. stoped and got gas got in the car turned the key and click. Pushed the car jumped in and put it in gear, not fast enough to bump start but enuogh to turn the motor a little, turned the key and it fired right up. Drove to my fathers the car sat for 4 or 5 hours and started no problems.
I am thinking starter.

Take your car to a Sears or auto parts store where they can test the battery and charging system under load, that should narrow your search for the cause. If the charging system/battery are good, next stop is the starter circuit.

Well, it's not a hot start issue. Tried it this morning, and same thing. Had enough juice to light a marker light before I tried. Then, no start. Just a single click. And not enough juice to light the light.
However, it still says I'm getting 12v+ from the battery...

Start by ruling out some basic things: Start the car and check the voltage the alternator is putting out. Get a the wife to try to start the car and see what the volts drop down to when she turns the key. If the volts are OK, take the battery down to Autozone (or almost any FLAPS) and have them test it. It could have 12V but still not have enough in it to start the car. You may have a bad cell. How old is the battery?
If the battery is bad, get an Optima. Do a search and find some excellent info on the battery and how to mount it.

WolfeMacleod,
12+v looks fine. I am not a pro but I had similar problem in th past; voltage looks ok but watage is not. This can not be tested by a multimeter. Why don't you take the car to Sear or any autopart store where you want to get your batery from and ask them to test your batery. They would be able to tell if your batery is still good or dead (for free).
If your batery is still good, they charge it up for free (autozone does). Now maybe it's the starter.
Couple months ago, I had this problem with my P. It was the commbination of alternator and starter but I end up changing batery 3 times in about 1/2 year. Finally I know it's the starter because it happen right when the car at the mechanic shop (was working on something else). We then got under the car and knock the starter with a small hammer, it started right up after that. After 2 tests (knocking hammer), I know the starter is is gone. Rebuilt starter is around $100 or so but installation is a biatch.

I agree with Por_sha911. Replace that monster with an Optima. That's the only way to go.

Re: Get in. Turn Key. *click*
 

my routine is usually to go into solenoid jump mode first.


most times it'll take the jump from the sol battery lug to the sol trigger lug.

a Snap-On battery load tester is around $90. Other mfg are a bit less.

I would check your ground straps. One is where the battery negative connects to the body. The other connects between the body and the forward part of the transmission.

In situations like this, generally speaking, there is a fairly high probability that the problem is one or more poor connections. Sure, it could be the battery or the alternator or the starter, but often times a poor connection is the culprit. Battery post connections are often not good enough, even when the look good. It's always a nice idea to clean those terminals with one of those wire thingies.

Obviously, the connections at the starter are important also. When messing with them please remember that the fat red wire to the starter is UNFUSED and ALWAYS LIVE. Best to disconnect the negative battery terminal before touching the starter terminals.

Another connection is the large yellow wire at the 14-pin connector in the engine compartment at the fuse box there. I once had a starting problem that turned out to be a bad connection there.

Starter switch connections and starter switch functioning can also be a cause of trouble.

With the connections clean, including the transmission-to-chassis ground strap under the car, and with the starter switch checked out, and with 12.3 volts or more at the battery, if the starter does not work then it probably needs replacement or refurbishing.

Years ago I tore out my X1/9 starter and simply replaced the brushes. That was less than a $10 fix. Is it possible to do the same with a 911 starter? Brushes wear down, and if a new set can be popped in it will certainly save a "rebuild". The rest of the starter should be good yet, anyway? :)

wolf
i feel your pain you know of the issues i had on said drive.

just saw something this weekend on a car show...the battery might be showing the correct volts but the amps were way low.

might have the battery place check your cold cranking amps first....if the battery is suspect then that might be all you have to worry about.

then its the fun part of tracking down where the gap in your starting sequence is.

Get everythng taken care of, yeah?

Well...we tracked it down. Updated the opening post. Turned out to be the green disconnect or whatever on the ground lug.

everything running great since i did a partial tune up and JW helped me out with the rest of the tune. didn't have a timing light so i was going blind on the timing, and it was quite retarded. the original appt was for some oil seals to replace, so "lil smokie" doesnt smoke anymore.

i have one of those disconnect thingies too. john said i could take it off if i liked, but at least clean up the two surfaces of it to make sure that was making a good contact. i like having it for now. make is easy to do any electrical repairs so it stays for now.



glad you figured out you problem.:)

I remember smething about a "glass of water trick" which involved placing a glass of water on the engine and adjusting the timing till the waves in the water cancelled each other out and the water became as still as possible. I used this trick on my old 924 years ago, and it semed to work pretty well.

Glad to hear that "lil smokie is no longer a fire hazard. :D

That's what the water is for..... :D