Correct black for 72-73 metal decklid grills???

Shaun @ Tru6 · 06-20-2007, 07:09 PM

In redoing my 69, I bought a "perfect" 70 grill on Classifieds, but it was painted black. My original one is too, but when I rubbed a little acetone on it, beautful polished Al shown through. but it's really warped and generally challenged. So thinking I could do the same with this 70 grill...

Well, it is perfectly formed, nothing bent or pushed in. but the paint job is pretty sub par. Removing the paint,

someone had bead blasted it, certainly for better adhesion.

Soooooo, does anyone know whether satin, flat, semi-gloss, Wurth, Rustoleum, whatever, will make the 70 grill look great again as a 72/73 clone so I can sell it? I have some Wurth Trim Paint, which looks nice.

bead blasted badnes

my original grill, super shiny, but all bent and pushed in

Bonus, all those pesky aircraft were also removed with the paint.

Tyson Schmidt · 06-20-2007, 07:40 PM

Well original was anodized black, and would fade to purple and eventually kind of a silver-grayish purple, then kind of platinum look when they are really faded.

Most people paint them satin black, but it doesn't look technically correct, but it does look right.

BTW, you can remove the individual bars and straighten them.

On the blasted one, you could always remove the bars, polish them to get them smooth again, and get them re-anodized.

pwd72s · 06-20-2007, 08:28 PM

Tyson nailed it...originally anodized. Forget paint unless you're looking for a sucker who doesn't know any better. Just a thought...but have you ever thought of offering it as original, explaining it's year and also the flaws??? Gee, Some potential buyer out there might appreciate that...

Shaun @ Tru6 · 06-21-2007, 05:27 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Tyson Schmidt

BTW, you can remove the individual bars and straighten them.

On the blasted one, you could always remove the bars, polish them to get them smooth again, and get them re-anodized.

Thanks Tyson, can you point me in the right direction for removing the bars? Looks like everything is held together via brazier head rivets.

MBruns · 06-21-2007, 05:46 AM

Wurth has a product part #893 329 005 it is a great paint for fuchs wheels, black trim, engine sheetmetal, it is a matt black that looks proper and withstands engine heat, cleaners etc..
it is a laquer but dont let that scare you, I have used it for years and love it. A tip when spraying use a wet coat to keep the finish smooth, if you dont it will be a dry finish,

My $.02, Mike Bruns

Wurthusa.com

1 800 987 8487

robmog · 06-21-2007, 06:21 AM

i have one in the exact same condition.
i stripped the paint and found the defect.
i think the discoloration is from an engine fire.
the anobrite company will re-anodise for $300-400.
not worth too much as a core unless the buyer is not too picky.
bob

Zeke · 06-21-2007, 07:30 AM

I'm wondering if some sort of dye would restore a grille, at least temporarily. I know I have used a felt pen to touch up chips in the original anodize. Another though: soda blast that grille to remove the coarseness of the bead blast. It will be a nice, smooth, dull silver after the soda. Might take a dye nicely.

randywebb · 06-21-2007, 12:44 PM

some people use Black Marks-A-Lots to touch up black lug nuts.

can't imagine it would be all that even on a grill bar tho...

Highfield · 06-21-2007, 01:18 PM

Shaun,

Nice write up over here on DDk from Alan.UK on how to restore a grill.

http://www.ddk-online.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=13604&highlight=grill

Ian

cmcfaul · cmcfaul's Garage

I painted mine with a high heat engine paint semi gloss. Looks great and really makes the paint on the rest of the car look a bit better as well. (more pop / contrast).

Chris

73 911 E

dezzmo · 06-21-2007, 03:27 PM

Shaun,

I took my grille and stripped the anodizing clean off so now it looks shiny like the early cars. I used an anodize remover from www.jestcoproducts.com. It's the same chemical that they use to clean Airstream trailers. You mix it with water and let it sit in a tub and it eats away the anodizing. It can be a little messy but it does work.

I may still have some around so if you want to try it let me know and I'll drop it off at your place. Trust me, once you strip off the anodizing you won't want to paint it.

Tyson Schmidt · 06-21-2007, 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Shaun 84 Targa
Thanks Tyson, can you point me in the right direction for removing the bars? Looks like everything is held together via brazier head rivets.

The bars are kind of C-shaped in cross-section, and they snap onto the longitudinal pieces with kind of a serrated, ratchet looking interlocking thing. Carefully and gently pry with something taped up for protection. Sorry I can't explain it better, but if you'd seen one apart, it would be easy.

Shaun @ Tru6 · 06-21-2007, 07:09 PM

Thanks Ian, great write-up.

Tim, your grill looks fantastic, I should definitely try your de-anodizer. Janus and I are going up to Chris' on Sunday for trailing arm bearings and other fun. can you make it?

Tyson, thanks for the description, I think I know what you are describing, will give it a try.

Thanks All!

It's been a fun night working on the trailing arms, though wish I had thinned the POR15; hoping second coat will help smooth it out.

Soaking all the little handbrake bits in Metal Ready does wonders BTW...went in rusty, 2 hours later, all the springs and pins look brand new.

Post Metal Ready

First coat drying, not pretty

Rattlecan high heat gloss.

dezzmo · 06-22-2007, 11:04 AM

Sunday is a very good possibility. I should be able to make it

TRE Cup · TRE Cup's Garage

If you do choose to take the grill apart, be prepare to a) find a way to mark each bar and position so they don't get mixed up b) spend a LOT of time removing carefully c) spend a LOT of time straightening out everything that gets bent in the process of restoring them.

You really need to hand polish them carefully before reanodizing. A commercial polisher will ruin them. When choosing a place to do the anodizing, check out other delicate items they have done; you don't want to come back to beautifully colored spaghetti !

dezzmo · 06-22-2007, 12:49 PM

[QUOTE]Originally posted by TRE Cup
[B]If you do choose to take the grill apart, be prepare to a) find a way to mark each bar and position so they don't get mixed up b) spend a LOT of time removing carefully c) spend a LOT of time straightening out everything that gets bent in the process of restoring them.

TRE Cup, as you mentioned about keeping them numbered, I began to do that when I discovered that they already have numbers on them! If you look on the right front side of each grille you will see a number 1 thru 13 starting from the bottom grille to the top.

I don't know about all years but my 73 is like it. Take a look at yours and let me know

Shaun @ Tru6 · 06-22-2007, 01:16 PM

more good advice. for straightening, I was considering making a chopped glass fiber female mold of the "perfect" grill and then fit in the wavy grill, though I'm not sure if I'll achieve yield strength just by fitting them in.

What I really need is a 12 inch wide fluffy buffer. Wonder if I can use one of those old shoeshine buffers?

In other news, picked up some Xylene to thin POR15 today and hope to scuff and shoot the arms tomorrow. They're nice now, but could be better and it seems the satin POR is variable when applied by brush.