There are a few ways, number on the WUR, numbers on the fuel distributor. However by far the easiest check is for the frequency valve. This guy looks exactly like a modern day fuel injector in-line with a rubber hose. In fact the Lambda brain switches the ground on and off to pulse the valve.

it's part #77 in the diagram. You will also have 15 and 49 on the right side of the system, these are the aav and decel valve, 80-83 had two. 80' also had plastic fuel lines, but these are often changed out.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/911/911_...8-83/1-7-3.JPG

One of the things I noticed right off is that my distributor only has one vacuum hose port which is connected. Two vacuum hoses go to it however one is plugged with a screw. The fuel distributor has the number 158313 042 on it and I can not see #77 and #15 looks totaly different from the pic you sent.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1183506814.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1183506862.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1183506903.jpg

You sure this is an 80? I ask because 80 didn't have air pumps, and that's clearly and older CIS setup, like a 78'. But the fact that you have a smog pump leads me to believe that the entire motor is a transplant from another year. Do you have air injection rails as well?

Better post the engine number up so one of the experts here can tell you what it's from.

The engine number is 6304271. The VIN is 91AO134541 which I looked up on the web shows to be 1980.

I am not seeing air injection rails...

thanks,

Richard

I would post a pic of my 80' engine but it's so heavily modified at this point that I doubt it would matter.

The 1980 911SC Euros had a smog pump, for sure. Didn't the US version have an oxygen sensor and NO smog pump? And with the oxygen sensor came an electrical connection to the fuel distributor to run the frequency valve? Looks like a Euro SC.

Look for an ID plate in front of the driver's seat at the base of the windshield that you could see from outside the car. Methinks the US version has that plate -- my Euro 80 SC did NOT have that plate.

Now that would be cool, and yes the US version had no smog pump in 80'

on the window frame, drivers side has the vin plate riveted to it. I wonder if this is a US body with a Euro motor put in it?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1183509607.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1183509663.jpg

That riveted plate on the A pillar is part of the federalization of a Euro car. That is exactly what my 1980 Euro SC has, showing the VIN.

It looks like you have a matched set of Euro body and Euro engine.

I do not mean to sound ignorant, however what does that mean in the functionality of the car?

Also, how would this apply to my poor starting when its hot? I did replace the accumulator...

I appreciate everyones input on this very much!

Congratulations! Now replace that oil feed line to the oil restrictor, don't want hose clamps on those. Little oil starvation to my cam spay bars was all it took to ruin my engine.

EDIT: Oh still having the hot start issues? You need a set of CIS test gauges to solve that. The JC Whitney set is like $60 and well worth it. You need to measure the amount of pressure drop over time on a warm engine.

You could have a few things going on here, since you already replaced the accumulator you could be in it for a simple check valve. On the other hand I had bad fuel distributor that would stay cracked open and flood the cylinders after startup. Both conditions can be checked with the tester.

Ok, I will pick up a set of CIS test gauges and go from there. I do have a new check valve and will install it this weekend.

I checked the vin out on the web and it does show this is a Euro car, however how do I determine what the motor #6304271 means?

911mnypt,

What is the engine type number near the engine number.
930/07--USA
930/08--JAPAN
930/09--ROW

These numbers will help determine what engine you have.

It has 930/09....so its "ROW" which means?

Rest of World. It means it's a grey market import. I have one as well. Good, no emission controls and more horsepower. Bad, others say the value is lessened but I don't listen to that because I have no plans to sell. Some federalized RoW cars were poorly done meaning you have to correct the problems. Also, no way to know for sure what the mileage is since the speedometer has been swapped from kph mph.

Interesting...Would you advise on taking of the catalytic converter and smog pump? What can I anticipate when I have to smog it in wonderful California?

You can anticipate a real pain in the rear most likely. These cars were federalized when brought into the states. You will still be requires to pass emission standards. A lot of people remove theses parts but I can't comment on smogging afterwards. I don't have to smog my car so I don't know how bad it makes it by not having emission controls.

Hi, I don,t know if this helps ,but i had a hot start problem with my 2.7, that sounds just like yours ,i had problems adjusting the mixture because screw was stuck, i got the mixture screw turning and adjusted mixture on machine, now car runs and starts the best it ever has and didn,t cost any thing to do.

Malpaslane,

Did you richen or lean your mixture?

Hi, i made it more lean. co was up on 8 and i brought it down to 1.5-2.0.