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My hat is off. Excellant job.
This is the type of project that I hope to have the time to do when I retire...I'm sure my current 911 will need it by then. -Matt |
I just found a photo of the car on the rotisserie in Jan. of 2003 on an old Zip drive disk. (Though I had lost all of them). This is just back from media blaster and a "test rotation".
Note to anyone media blasting your car; I did NOT see the need to remove the tunnel wiring. (In fact I did not see how the attached wire "ends" would physically pass through the smaller holes in the body?) After labeling all wiring, I took plastic, gallon, milk containers; split up one side with a razor blade, inserted the bundled wires, then taped all around the jugs and wire bundles with duct tape for protection. (that is what you see hanging down from the trunk area). Did the same at the engine compartment end. Worked great! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1182960768.jpg |
Ok, for those that inquired about the $ cost of this restoration project, the numbers are totaled and they came in just as I had anticipated (IE: running total in my head).
Here is a generalization of parts grouping: Initial purchase price of car $4,000 Media blasting $450 Replacement sheet metal: floor pans, front suspension pan, door latch jams, inner/outer rocker panels, longitudinal’s, battery boxes, front fender supports etc. $2,100 Steel for constructing the ‘body cradle’ and rotisserie $ 290 Welding supplies and misc. sheet metal : rod, gas, etc. $ 220 Metal pieces deemed too far gone (rusty/damaged) to repair: Passenger front fender, taillight housings, fuel tank and front pan/bumper. $ 660 Engine rebuild: rings, rod/main bearings, intermediate bearing, rod bolts/nuts, gasket set, tensioner upgrade, chains/gears & misc. $ 1,385 Rebuild heads $1,130 4 rebuilt wheel calipers, all new brake lines, master cylinder, new front rotors rebuild pedal assembly. $735 New clutch, pressure plate, T.O. bearing, bushing, pilot bearing, etc. $ 333 Seals & misc.: Windows, doors, trunk, bumper, sound pad, gas flap, pedal pads, door switch covers, etc. $ 450 ‘Fat Mat’ insulation, undercoating, “Must for Rust’ treatment. $ 275 ‘Overkill‘: Momo wheel, SSI exhaust (used), turbo tie rod upgrade, H4 headlights, K&N filters, MSD ignition setup. $1,520 Final body work, paint and clear coat. $5,200 Porsche specialty tools. $ 265 There are MANY more items I also replaced: Wheel bearings, deco trim, battery, antenna, plug wires, clutch/speedo. cables, axle boots, banana bushings, ball joints, shocks, headliner, horn grilles, fuel pump, etc. along with misc. metric bolts/nuts sourced, Swepco fluid, etc. The bottom line for ‘parts/supplies’ came to: $21,979.00 Now for my 5 years and 4 months labor: “nine, seven, four (carry the nine…. times…what???”) Oh jeez, never mind!! I did farm out the heads to Walt (Competition Engineering), did everything else myself except the media blasting and paint …and thoroughly enjoyed the experience! Just went for another drive this A.M. …just rolled over 490 miles on new engine. |
Thanks for the detailed info, that helps!
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This proves the adage that "they're all $21,979 cars." :)
Seriously, great work. Enjoy your ride. Brian |
that is awesome mogearhead!! Thx for the $$ #'s so everyone can get a "cost/value" understanding on what these kind of projects can become or are.
You must, and should be, very proud of yourself. Just think, you know EVERY NOOK & CRANNY about your car. Buying a similar car would of cost $25-30K, mile dependant, and you wouldnt know truley what you had...other than spent a lot of $$ and hoping like h^ll you made a good decision to buy such a used car. You have fueled my resto desire for a long hood to the max!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Great job!! Bob |
I saw this post after a search for "fuel line replacement". I saw your photos on photobucket. Man, a 5 year restoration. Your photos provide quite a blueprint for me and my 69. Although this is almost a year late, thanks for sharing this with us Mo gearhead!
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Looks like you did a great job!!! you are an inspiration. Im getting ready to do the same to my 1970t. Im glad that you said that about not taking out the wiring. That is something that concerned me! Nice job!
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