I just read this thread. Great pics! I have a few questions though: with the car tipped at that crazy angle, why is that man smiling? Is Diet Mt. Dew as good as regular Mt. Dew? Oh, and do I understand this right, the plan is to machine the heads, but not replace the cylinders, and maybe the rings? Did anyone check the pistons for wear too? Was a leakdown test performed to try to pinpoint the source of the oil consumption? Is it too late to scrap the original plan and just do a full engine rebuild?

Diet mt dew is better than regular mt dew. And diet vault is actually better than diet mt dew.

Scrap the plan and do a full engine rebuild...bite your tongue young man! p&c's will be carefully measured and hopefully be in spec. Haven't had the chance to do the measurements, but they will be done in the next day or so. Initial visual exam showed no scratching, grooves, or general funny business. The leakdown showed only cyl 3 with >5% loss, which, when conducted sounded as though it was coming past the rings. Unfortunately, a leakdown doesn't show valve guide wear, which I knew the car had. So all initial indications pointed to rebuilding heads and checking/replacing rings. We'll know more once we start taking off the barrels and measuring.

Dude,

I just saw your signature. "77 Wife, stock".. Too funny. That's awesome.

Anyway, back on topic now, good luck with your rebuild!!

So, what type P/C's do you have?
Alusil?
Nikasil?
And what is the plan for prepping the P/C's?

The cylinders are Nikasil, and once checked for spec will be de-glazed with a scotch-brite wrapped around a hone, as recommended here by someone I trust.

There is a lengthy debate in the rebuild archives about this prep as well.

I could see how a compression test wouldn't show leaking cylinders, but a leakdown test would have air coming out of the intake. worn rings result in air coming out of the tailpipe. All of this is academic now that you have the engine apart though. Now you can and should actually measure the wear physically. Dont forget to measure the amount of wear in the piston grooves, from the rings moving back and forth. Too much wear will result in a new ring breaking off.

You are right about the ring grooves, and they will be measured. I don't want any rings failing to seat, breaking or being generally disagreeable. I was told a good coating of gorilla glue will help hold them in place.

As for the leakdown test - it is my understanding that leaky rings will allow air to enter the crankcase, leaky exhaust valves will have air coming out through the tailpipe, and leaky intake valves air through the intake. However, if the valve guides are worn but the valves are still seating well, the leakdown won't show a loss in pressure as the cylinder can still be sealed. However this same engine can still burn oil as oil will drip down past the valve guides, past the valves and into the cylinders when the valve is open. The common diagnosis to a 3.2 with approx 100k mi (no top end rebuild), oil consumption, decent results on a compression and leakdown test would be worn valve guides. Which in my particular case, worn sloppy guides were confirmed by Anchor Atlantic. Of course this doesn't mean its only the valve guides 100% of the time. And in my case it may also be p&c's or rings or all of the above. Should know by tomorrow. Also smoke on decel vs. accelleration shows guide wear vs ring wear.

Yes, disfin. Your post directly above suggests to me that you know what you are doing.

Some folks have removed cylinders with the pistons still in them, but I don't recommend that. Again, my rings were among the few parts in my engine that were worn. The pistons and cylinders were NOT worn. The valves were worn. And the bearings were worn. And again, the closer you get to the bottom end, the simpler it gets. The head job will cost you a pretty penny. The rest of a good freshening job (rings and bearings) is pocket change.

I wish I had balanced my crank and rods, for peace of mind. I am currently replacing the flywheel and hoping the engine vibration goes away. I also wish I had rebushed the rods. I may have a tiny bit of wrist pin slap.

I kinda wish I had replaced my rocker shafts, but that's not critical. I am GLAD I installed the little o-ring thingies that help the rocker shafts not leak. They don't.

I don't know how much I'd hone the cylinders. Not much, if at all. I would wash and clean them within an inch of their lives, and I would use very little oil on them during assembly.

Good luck to you!

Don't forget to put the air deflector tin on the engine BEFORE you install the heads.

disfin, you are right, I got a little brain freeze there.

Superman, what is the reason for very little oil during assembly?

Man! I can't believe I've been missing this thread!

If I had joined in before you started I would have asked if you had a detailed project plan with time lines and some built in float. I love projects with aggressive time lines. Very challenging!

This sounds like the kind of project I would have done on my first car, a '70 Bug. Parts were cheap and easy to find and I could afford to be a little reckless.

If I were closer and not in the middle of race week, I'd offer to help.

Sage wisdom from Gen. Eisenhower.... "Plans are worthless, Planning is essential." In other words, nothing goes as planned but, if you have thought about contingencies and are prepared to act you have a better chance of success. Sounds like you gave this some thought and will come close to your goal but I wouldn't bet on the margin. :eek:

Once its running, plan on bringing it to Deland for an autocross. I need another 911 to run with.

For an engine that has never been apart:
Instead of using new rocker shafts, I turned them exactly 180 deg.
One can actually see the slight wear pattern from having pressure on the same area. Centering the shafts is critical to get the right torque and prevent leaks.
I recommend doing the rods professionally.
The shop will shave a few thou off the shoulder, then mount the lower half with the OLD bolts and bore out for the large bearings.
The small bushings are replaced and the rods are peened.
Give them the rods with the new wrist pin and the old bolts.
If the crank, after polishing, is standard, the new bearings can be standard.
I like ARP bolts.

I still think doing an engine in a hurry is asking for trouble.
Doing things right takes a certain amount of time.
Watch the clips for the wrist pins; they want to zoom off into the void. (Or disappear into the case)
Hope it works out without disappointments.

We are not splitting the case, never planned on doing so.
The pistons and ring groves are well in spec.
Cylinders will be measured today.

Have a safe holiday!

I see most don't have faith in d but I assure you he knows what he is doing much more then most of us.. so be patient and watch

Thanks Ben.

Cylinders all in spec for wear and ovality. New rings are in(John only dropped one circlip in the case!) Heads should be here tomorrow.

For the record, I have faith in Donnie and John as well. It is the stuff they can't control that I would be concerned about. A tight time line doesn't allow room for unexpected problems.

Glenn, this cracks me up:
"Some people are like Slinkies, they are not good for anything, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs." Great stuff!

We are still on track with out timeline. P&Cs were reinstalled yesterday with their new rings and gaskets. Also did a couple of other things such as breather cover gasket, oil themostat gasket, engine sound pad, new oil light switch and more cleaning.

HEADS SHOULD BE HERE TODAY! I'll finally get around to downloading some of the pictures and hopefully post some tonight.

and slid a brake job on my truck in yesterday as well

I'm jealous. I wish I could spend some significant time turning wrenches on my car.

subscribed. When are you starting to put the motor back together?

So, today the heads came in from Bob at Anchor Atlantic. I think he made a mistake and gave me brand new head as there is no possible way these are mine! They are gorgeous! I wish I had the time to have all my engine parts cleaned in his ultrasonic cleaner. To top it off, he threw in a cool little pocket knife with his company logo on it. So, thank you to Bob for a timely turnaround, and a job well done. Oh and his packaging was superb - no broken or bent studs.

So, tonight after work we installed the heads, cam towers, cams and began the cam timing process. We will finish the timing tomorrow, install the remaining rockers, install exhaust, intake etc. Oh and we get to load up Donnies moving truck again.

Hats off to Donnie for having the patience to answer all my questions. I've learned alot from this process as you could imagine and I couln't have done it without him and his garage full of tools. North Carolina is gaining a great porshe resource.

Here are a few more pictures. Notice the change in appearance of the tranny. Its far from concours, but at least you can see the metal now. And check out those heads.

Good night.

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