Torque Wrenches - What do you guys use for low torque?
 

I was wondering how most people torque at low settings.

My socket torque wrench ranges from 10 to75 foot-lbs. When torque requirements fall below 10 foot-lbs, what should I use? (ex. nylocs on valve covers)

Can someone direct me to to a wrench that offers lower settings and one that might be more suitable for confined engine spaces?

Thanks
Craig

I have a Proto 0-200 in/lb with 1/4" drive. Bought it years ago on E-Bay. Don't remember what I paid but not cheap.

3/8 inch torque wrench from Sears, upto 20lbft in inch-lbs increment.

3/8" bar type

I use a Snap-up Digital...

1/4" drive beam-type

Beam type on a low torque is the most accurate, I know I'll get flamed for this but there are studies the prove it. If not rusted or bent up the beam type wrenches are as good if not better than the digital one's I have 3 types a beam, clicker and a Snap-on digital. And I have a use for all 3

I just saw these fancy digital 10-100 lbs wrenches at Sears, 3/8 inch, +2/-3% accuracy, and $150. I would buy one if I did not already have 3.

below 10 ft-lbs. I use my wrist...

1/4 drive inch pound snap on click type for anything less than 200 in/lb

Sears makes a good one. That's what I use.

Me too, but I do have a 3/8" click type just in case.

My ideal torque wrench would be dial type Snap-On so you can watch the torque fall off as the bolt stretches when torqueing. We just threw one away at work because it would only work on left hand torque and was unrepairable. It was $380 to replace :o .

I'll probably get flamed for this but I bought a cheap charlie 1/4 inch click type on ebay specifically for my valve covers. My thinking is, at least I will get consistency, and 150 plus dollars for a snap on isn't justifiable.

I use a Park torque wrench (inch/lbs) for valve covers, etc. (most bicycle shops seem to carry Park tools around here):

http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=13&item=TW%2D2

ps: As I recall, it was around $40.

So low torque and sex are very similar for you? :D


I agree, less than 10 ft lbs is barely making contact. Valve covers and such are better by feel.

1/4" drive will get you an accurate measure of in lbs.

Snap-On digital for the low stuff....tops at 20 ft-lbs....NOT cheap...hardly use it...pretty good tolerance specs (that will separate the men from the boys). Having used it a few times, I agree that one can feel it with the wrist ,..if done frequently enough......I've a "clicker" design one that will sweep low to 5 ft-lbs....but NOT with the same specs as the Snap-On (IIRC)......

Had to dispose of my 200 pounder and now have one that max's at 100 ft-lbs. For now, am I OK for a few months should I need to use the 100 pounder for the 97 ft-lb torque for my lug nuts? Yeah, I know she's spec'd at 100 but one would probably NOT want her driving that frequently...I'm concerned about damaging it (so slightly)...

I understand 100=100..if she can't do it repeatedly, then rid myself of her? I plan on getting a 200 pounder within a few months but will be removing some wheels here shortly..hell,..I'll go for it...It's only a Kobalt....

Best,

Remember to, that the lower 20% range of a torque wrench should not be relied upon for correct torque...

Also remember to cycle the torque wrech through a minimum of 3 to 4 times before using the wrench.... to lube up the internals...

1/2 inch and 3/8 inch Craftsman bar/beam style with pivot handle.

The price is right, and lately I've been hearing this old fashion style is as accurate as click style.

Interesting tid bit of info on the lower 20% ... had no idea.

Thanks to all for the swift feedback. Much appreciated.

I don't know about the actual percentage, but it's better to use a wrench with the torque value in it's mid-range rather than on EITHER end of it's limit. (i.e. you're probably OK using a 100 ft/lb max wrench for 96 ft/lb lug nuts, but a wrench that goes from say 25-150 would be a better choice). I mean, how else can you justify having all these torque wrenches :)