Valve Cover Gasket Torque Question

[gregwils]

I recently purchased an '86 3.2. The PO performed a valve adjustment and installed new gaskets.

The passenger side exhaust cover is weeping more than I would like, dripping very slightly onto the heat exchanger. I don't think it is doing any harm, just stinks up the garage. No oil makes it to the garage floor.

The manual says 10lbs is the proper torque setting, so I snugged a few up that may have been slightly less. Still dripping. I snugged up a little more, 12 - 15 lbs. Still dripping.

The current gasket is a light green/blue color. I don't know if these have the silicone seal or not.

I just want to know if the 'street' procedure would be to tighten up further, or stop and replace gaskets with upgraded seal.

[9dreizig]

Make sure it's really the gasket that's leaking,, I just did this and found that it was the banjo fitting from an oil line right above the bottom valve cover.

[Mo_Gearhead]

Greg, Do a 'search' on valve covers here. Lots of info.

I believe the torque setting is in 'inch-lbs.' ...not 'ft.-lbs.'

Sounds like they MAY have been overtightened and this will create the posibility of warping / leakage.

[Zef]

Benthley call for a 6 foot\pound torque value (72 inches\pound) ...Do you have turbo covers...if not...this may help...

[svandamme]

could also be warped covers...

could give sillicone gasket's a try... but keep in mind those require even less torque..

they are also reusable...

[jbrand540]

I have heard that if you over tighten them it can cause them to leak but I think once the gaskets have started leaking for whatever reason they will continue to leak.

If you are sure they are what is leaking you may just want to take them off and thoroughly clean the valve covers and gaskets(if silicone) or replace and install new washers and nuts.

I use the silicone valve covers and tighten by feel. I focus mostly on getting them as even as possible in pressure as the torque wrench I have that does 5lbs usually doesnt click hard enough to reliabley notice until it gets to 10.

[Nine9six]

The right torque wrench, set to the correct torque setting should work just fine. If you have the silicone gaskets, they are resilient enough to use repeatedly, just as long as you dont damage by over tightening them.

[gregwils]

I believe this is probably a valve cover issue, but wanted a few second opinions. The red arrow (hope it shows up) is the valve cover, the white arrow is pointed to the ribs where the oil is dripping. I know oil can migrate, but seems as though there should be oil dripping off the valve cover itself, but most is coming off the ribs. The return tubes behind the heads are dry, but a little bit of oil seems to be wicking up the back. The top of the exhaust valve cover is pretty dry, no fresh oil.

Any thought would be appreciated.

[svandamme]

eeh, i fail to see how oil would travel upwards and drip from something that is higher up then the gasket edge, which is sticking out... and forms the most obvious path for the oil to drip down from....

perhaps some others can comment?

[gregwils]

It looks higher than it actually is, but I do be believe it is up at least a few centimeters.

[Mo_Gearhead]

Had the same problem. Used Turbo Type valve covers, installed, leaked (turned out they were warped), the leaking gasket put oil exactly as indicated in your pic. (on the lower ribs). Sometimes the gaskets will leak near the studs and oil will drip from the nuts themselves.

Once I 'sanded' the covers flat, no more oil on the ribbed areas.

There is a sort of optical illusion when photos are taken beneath the car, the ribs are almost level with the gasket at the bottom.

[dshepp806]

Mine appear quite nicely at the seams..however, I see a few VC studs that weep at the nylock...with various gasket changeouts...same results,..EVERSOSLIGHT BUT THERE 4 SURE. Guess I need to check for VC cover trueness, as they "could" have been overtorqued at some point? I've not yet tried the "silicones"....otherwise, this '89 requires me to add MUCH <1/2 qt. after 4K miles......AMEN!!!!!!!!!!!

Do you guys see weeping from the nylocks and NOWHERE'S els?

Best,

[gregwils]

"Had the same problem. Used Turbo Type valve covers, installed, leaked (turned out they were warped), the leaking gasket put oil exactly as indicated in your pic. (on the lower ribs). "

Awesome! Thank you so much. I will remove and sand the covers, plus install new seals.

[KFC911]

I like the orange silicone gaskets. After you've sanded the covers flat, and removed any residual gasket material, tighten the nuts in a criss-cross pattern working from the middle of the cover outward towards each end. First tighten the nuts to 4 ft/lbs (48 inch/lbs), and then go back and tighten them to 6 ft/lbs (72 inch/lbs), and you'll be dry. I'm an amateur, and don't trust myself to do this by feel, so I purchased a Park bicycle torque wrench (calibrated in inch/lbs) for this job...it's REALLY easy to overthighten the nyloc nuts, and that will typically cause leaks. Hope this helps...

ps: You're better off tightening the nuts by "feel" imo, than using a torque wrench that only goes down to 5 ft/lbs at it's minimal setting...that's not going to be accurate enough for this job.

[Quicksilver]

Originally posted by dshepp806
. . .
Do you guys see weeping from the nylocks and NOWHERE'S els?

Best,

Pretty common if you don't use new washers and new nuts each time.
All of these are single use items.

[dshepp806]

P-wrench used all new hardware on the valve adjustment(s) job.....but made no comment as to VC integrity....I think I may place them on the glass next oil change and check (myself) for trueness...

Best,

[Wil Ferch]

From the description of the leak, could you possibly have a leak at the cam housing-to-cylinder head joint ?????

?????

- Wil