Question on testing my AAR
 

Hi all,
I have the AAR out of the car. I checked the resistance across the two electrical contacts and was between 30 and 40 ohms. I did the 25 minutes in the oven test and it closed with only a sliver of light coming through. What John Walker said was correct.
I now want to do the 12 volts to the terminals test before putting it back in to make sure all is indeed OK. My question is does it matter to which terminal I connect the pos. or neg. wires from my 12 volt source?
Thanks all.
Juan

I don't think so.
To be safe, check the plug to see which side the brown ground wire is on.
I use an old plug to test components with 12V.
Allow a few minutes for the opening to close with power on.
You can spray a little WD-40 into the AAR valve.

Thanks for the reply. The AAR is back in the car. What a PITA!
I read all I could find on the AAR. Found nothing about WD-40.
Just spray it into either opening?
This might be a stupid question but what exactly will the WD-40 do, repel water, lube.........?

I think Gunter was referring to the lubricating effect of the WD40 on the pivot point of the "flap"

Mine stuck closed on me once--took awile to figure out.
a little wd-40 may be a good idea

With the unit back in the car I would only be able to randomly spray into the exit end of the valve. Is this OK or do i need to remove it again and sray the WD-40 aiming toward the pivot?
I really don't want to remove it again as I still have my AC and it's a royal pain working round it.

Juan:
It's easy.
Just open the clamp, move the hose/Alu pipe away a little just enough so you can spray a little WD-40 into the hole.
Testing the AAR on the bench is o.k. but you also have to make sure that it gets 12V when installed:
While you have the hose/Alu pipe disconnected, use a little mirror and light to check the opening when cold.
Then re-connect the hose and let the engine run for a 5 minutes, shut off, remove the hose and check that the opening is closed.