engine stand question
 

I have a 3.0 engine that I want to purchase a engine stand for. I see all the local auto parts stores and Harbor Freight have a 750 lb. rated for about $30.00-$40.00 are these sufficient for a 911 engine? And do I need the 911 "adapter mount" or can the engine be bolted directly to the stand? I'm going to be storing the engine on the stand for about a year but during that time I'll be doing cleaning/replacing of various engine parts and a stand will make it much easier. This will be the 1st 911 engine I have mounted to a stand so talk to me like I'm a 12 year old:D ThanksSmileWavy

You need a 911 Engine yolk, $350. The $45 harbor freight stand will fit the yolk just fine.

Due to how wide a 911 engine is, I'd recommend a stand with 4 wheels. I've used the yoke that comes with these stands to hold the engine but you do risk damaging the transmission mounting surface so you're better off with the yoke designed for the 911 engine.

Our host sells the yoke.

PEL-TOL-P201

go with the 1000 lb rated unit. It's nearly the same price and it's much sturdier. there's a 15% off coupon in circulation right now and I think it may be on sale too

I bought a 1000lb 4 wheel stand. I didn't like the idea of torquing the crank pulley nut to spec on a lighter unit. I think most of these ratings are static. I have no idea how much force we are really putting on these units when we are struggling with a difficult bolt or nut.

By the way, I used the yoke adapter plate rather than the full engine yoke. It works well for the engine but you can't get to the flywheel easily and the clutch wont fit at all. If you can, get the full Porsche engine yoke.

Unless you plan on splitting the cases you don't need either the yoke or the adapter plate. There is a thread on here that has pictures showing how to use a regular engine stand. You need to drill some new holes and use some spacers. It works. I used it. Of course when I had to rebuild the engine I got the yoke. Get the 1000 pound stand with 4 wheels. Even then I would put a 2x4 under the engine when I was not working on it. Just made me nervous seeing it hanging off the stand.

I used the adapter ring ($150.-?) on a sturdy 4-wheel engine stand to build my ss 3.2.
It worked well.
Dismantle the engine taking pictures and mark the lines and wires.
Take the parts to a shop with a parts washer, it's worth it!

Buy the right tools, you can always sell them later.

This picture is not mine but very similar to what I used:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1184081115.jpg

Note the two legged version of the stand is a much beefier unit than the one legged version. I have a HF store about 5 minutes from my house (very bad for the wallet!) and I went there and looked at both the super cheap tri-point and the quad... I got the quad. Works great!

The only issue I have is that with a 17 1/2" lift on my jack it is just that hair too short to get the engine on the stand with comfort. I got it on there, but getting it off will be interesting. I'm going to use the 15% coupon + gift card I got for dad's day (my family knows me well ;) ) and get a cheap ATV jack for that...


My 3.0 just placed on the HF stand.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1184082470.jpg

And the back sde w/ Mainley mount:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1184082873.jpg

I would recommend the Mainley or full engine hoop. The spacer trick is nice and cheap, but the rings really provide a lot of support and I feel it is worth it. The only argument for the full hoop is easier access to the flywheel bolts.

Enjoy!

Michael

The special porsche yokes come up on ebay every now and then. Bought mine for $150. They are the best solution for access to the clutch and best clamping. Note that you are only holding on to two studs! Then use a 4 wheel standard stand and you are all set. Definitely get a setup where you are able to split the case. Often, going into some work, you never think you'll split the case. Before you know it, you are there ... ;)

George

I saw the Harbor Freight ad with the 15% off coupon that's why I am asking. I'm trying to save money where I can but I know the value of good tools to make the job go easier. With a fairly large floor jack ( Craftsman 3.5 ton ) can you lift the engine high enough to mount it to the stand? I'll get the adapter ring. Thanks guys.

An engine stand isn't a prerequisite for assembling an engine. Due to space constraints, I assembled my engine on a workbench. For access, I placed the crankcase on a plywood platform sitting on top of a large (~12-15") furniture turntable. I could access any part of the engine by simply rotating the engine. To access the bottom (drain tubes, exhaust studs, pressure relief valves, etc.), position the flywheel end of the engine on the turntable.

I installed the exhaust system after reinstalling the drivetrain in the car.

Sherwood

I use an engine crane ('cherry picker') to lift my engines on the stand. You can also have a simple hoist and tie it into your garage rafters (adequately strong rafters of course).

Even if your jack does not go high enough, you should be able to rig something from wood where you take it up in steps or you can buy beer for 3 strong buddies and do it by hand ...

George

Nice, Sherwood.

Check the lift height on the sears Jack. I had a few pieces of wood on mine plus the engine and barely made it with 17 1/2" lift. I have considered cutting my stand down about 1" on the vertical post.

At the top the whole things gets really unstable and looking back I was a complete idiot for not having an extra set of hands there to help me... it was 2am though ;)

My HF stand + adapter works great as I said. Paint is really cheap and rubs off on your hands so if you get bored strip it and repaint it :) The nice thing is the whole thing can be disassembled and stored in the attic... probably a common feature, but I'm space poor. Not as much as Sherwood though ;)

Best regards,

Michael

I use a jack that has a 32" lift.
It wasn't that expensive compared to a normal car jack, but it is quite long and presents a problem of where to store it when not in use.
It lifts the engine with no problem at all, and fits in between the 2 legs of my engine stand very nicely.
I made a top piece for it out of aluminum (about 6" wide and 12" long) to support the engine without rocking.
The bottom of the adapter just has a round stud 6" long to go into the piece that normally holds the cup assy.
Makes the whole operation a one man deal.
Bob

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1184106883.jpg

I had to resort to a HF chain hoist and load leveling bar to get the engine up on a single beam stand (H- beam 4 wheel). Works really well solo.

Maybe a silly question, but...a...how do you transition from the shop floor after lowering the engine out of the car, to suspended from the yoke in the engine stand?

Well, there you go...I got my answer.


Timing is everything!

...you can also call your burly neighbor buddies and tell them you need help with some beer.

Installing a hoist and support structure is a project in itself. Going to use that much? You could just rent a portable engine hoist.

An alternate DIY method is to remove add'l weight from the engine while it's on the floor (crossbar, clutch/flywheel assy., sheet metal, etc., then use muscle (former football friends) and temp. support (be creative) to mount what's left onto the engine stand.

A good time to install the overhead hoist is while you're waiting for the machine shop to do its thing. In some cases, the turnaround time could take months.

S