How to test the power window relay?
 

Is there a way to test the power window relay behind the instrument gauges? My windows will not work on either side.

Thanks,

Hey Mike,
Did you check the relay in the front trunk already? Do you have one there? I know we have discussed this problem but I forgot if we checked this.
To check a relay listen to hear a click when applying power. Now, I have two that would click when using the horn button but I still got no horns.

Go figure. I bought a couple of new relays and we'll see what happens.

Can you try a different relay from another application?
Call me if you want, I'm on vacation this week. :)

I had a symilar problem with my driver side window. I changed the relay and worked for a few minutes, than died .bought a new relay, worked for a few and kaput again! in the end, it turned out being the actual switch. Aparentlly it's a fairly comon problem.

For the relay: There should be +12V on pin 30 always. There should be +12V on pin 86 when the key is in ACC and ON, but not start. Pin 86 triggers the internal relay, so you should hear it click and then see +12V on pin 87. This is the power to the windows. It routes through fuse 1 in the front fuse box (this fuse is good, right?) and then to pins 3 and 5 of the switches in the driver's window.

I agree with Radu, most likely a switch problem. I had one go bad on me, too. To test, pull the window switch out. The blue wires are the wires to the window motor. Brown is ground, red wires are +12V. First, are you getting +12V between the red and brown wires at the switch? If so, the relay is fine. Then jumper the +12V to one of the blue wires, and the brown to the other. The window should move. If the window is up and you hear the motor straining, unjumper and flip the polarity - the window should go down. If these tests work, it's the switch. If you have +12 and ground at the switch, and jumping doesn't work, the motor may be bad (although its unlikely that both motors would go bad at once).

I wanted to bump this thread and ask questions... I am also having issues with my driver side window switches...

Using the info above, I believe I have ruled out issues with the relays and or bad motor as I am getting power at the switch and can move the window up and down by direct power to the blue cables.

My issue is that unless I jump the brown cable directly to ground the driver side switches are dead.

When I place a jumper from the driver-side switch (post 4) to a bolt on the door, I can raise and lower both windows. If I remove the jumper only the passenger window switch (on the passenger side door) works.

Any suggestions?

RBL

Have you checked the wiring in the area of the door hinge for a broken wire? Check continuity of the bad wire.

Brown is ground and you likely have a bad wire or ground connection.
The ground (2 wires to a round terminal) for both sides is about 6-8 inches from the female 6 pin connector of the power window harness where it goes through the body in the trunk near the door hinge on the drivers side.

Windows.
 

M/Y please.

Gerry

A little wiggle of the round plug did the trick.

Thanks

RBL

I had both windows stop working at the same time...seems like the relay is the only thing they would have in common. Correct? 1977 911