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That's an epoxied joint too, isn't it?
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Not anymore. Mine is welded.
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OK, moving along...
What about "flipping" the engine/tranny mounts. Anyone done this? One pelican claimed a significant improvement: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/newreply.php?action=newreply&postid=2785337 Quote:
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I got all new mounts front and back. Only a slight improvement.
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Flipping them strikes me as unlikely and new bushing fall into the same category.
My car has 150,000 miles original engine and tranny bushings, but it is properly adjusted and the coupling has been rebuilt. It shifts very nicely. |
ya this car only has 69,000 miles. The previous owner only drove it ~2000 miles in 3 years. We've put 2k on it in the past 2 months.... I think we're just "rattling" out any issues.
Who'da thunk PPOT would know so much about porches? - Technical content: Check - Political references: Check - Cute girly in bunny outfit: Check - Global warming debate: Check The only thing I'm missing is a one-star thread rating. |
If you don't do the jacking up the transmission route, you'll need to remove the parking brake assy and it will come out there. Slide the rod all the way forward and pull it out towards the back seats. Once you have it lined up, and turning it as you remove it, comes right out! Helps to have the passenger seat out too!
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Bump back to the top and hopefully into the tech forum where Jake can get more responses.
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Dad managed to pick up the two front bushings this afternoon. I'll throw them in this weekend, and have a look at the coupler bushings. The shop wanted to sell him a new coupler, but I'd just as soon hold off, and then press in new brass bushings if needed. |
This tech article was posted in a shifting thread and a lot of people said it works wonders.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_shifting_improvements/911_shifting_improvements.htm |
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Good luck with the bushings, Jake. SmileWavy |
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Also, I emailed the PO and apparently I was wrong about the car having Swepco lube. I'll add that to the list for fall maintenance. |
Screw buying a new coupler. My favourite saying is "if I can do it, anyone can" and I did it. Just do some reading here on getting the new bushings in - I used a socket to apply pressure to the bushing and squeezed it in using a vice. Once I figured out how to get it in, it took a couple of minutes.
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Just the same, I think I'll start with those two shifter bushings. I'll have a look at the coupler, and if it's wiggly I'll press in new bushings when I have the car again later in the summer. At that stage, I'll probably do engine & tranny mounts too. |
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Is that a homemade one? I saw a few threads about using universal couplers from Aircraft Spruce, and drilling/tapping a setscrew. I couldn't find the specific part # though.
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Sorry, back, damn job. Yes I was able to get #25 (the long shaft in the tunnel) out by jacking up the transmission and removing the cross member. It was a tight fit, but it does come out by twisting it. I cleaned up the end and aligned the stub piece on the shaft, then welded with my MIG using high amp and stainless wire.
It's an amazing fix, night and day. I can only guess that the PO had the shift coupler out of alignment and he was forcing the shifter around, and broke the now identified epoxy. Like I said in my previous post I can't understand why the factory did this, a billet shaft would have been a better choice IMHO. |
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I guess "homemade" can mean a lot of different things, depending on whether you have a lathe, welder, or beer on your breath. When I was 17, I replaced the shift linkage in my Lecar with a bike pedal, pedal arm and 4 hose clamps. I once had it in a Renault-only shop in Montreal, and when they drove it they asked me what "short shift" kit I used. They sure laughed when I showed them. |
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