Rebuild tranny or adjust coupler?

[Goosh]

I have a quandary - since installing my new Wevo shifter and coupler I have gotten the transmission stuck in reverse 5 or 6 times - the most recent adventure, though, was at Napa Auto Parts store, where I parked the car, picked up some parts and when I got back in the car only reverse was available. Had to have it towed home - glad I had installed the Rennline tow hooks front and back! I have the routine down to under 2 hours to "pop" the tranny back into place ... but...

My question is with this occurring so frequently:1) do I need to "properly" adjust my coupler (I thought it was okay this last time I adjusted it) or 2) do I need to rebuild my transmission. Is there any "shortcut" to resolving this issue other than the 2 options above?

I have read all 16 pages of Randy's (rcecale) transmission repairs and it sounds intimidating - so I would like to be sure that I MUST do the transmission - Obviously, I would like to resolve this the easiest way possible.

Thanks in advance for your help - this forum is unbelievably awesome ... so much so, I won't take much for me to get in over my head very quickly! Thanks, Harry (Goosh)

[Scott R]

Any problems before the coupler was replaced?

[scottb]

Goosh: This seems like a no-brainer to me. First try adjusting the coupler. (Have you tried contacting Hayden at Wevo to see if he has any advice?) If that doesn't work, THEN think about rebuilding the tranny.

Scott

[Goosh]

No problems before coupler replaced - I will try to adjust coupler again - I'd like to know what position the coupler would need to be in to preclude the getting stuck in reverse. I will try to adjust again ... after I get it out of reverse - maybe 6th time.

Thanks to both Scotts, Goosh

[boyt911sc]

Goosh,

Search for J.W's (John Walker) instruction in setting the shift coupler for 915 trans. It was more than 10 years ago when he gave me this procedure over the phone and the end result was phenomenal. Good luck.

TD

[Goosh]

Well, I went thru the process of trying to unstick reverse thru the reversing light and could not get it out of reverse - how much force should I exert on the pin (drill bit) I'm using? Prior times that I have done this, it was relatively an easy push and I could hear a clicking when pushed. This time I couldn't get it to budge!

Probably a stupid question, but: Does it make any difference if the emergency brake is on when fiddling with the transmission and pushing on the pin (drill bit)?

Is there someway to verify the positioning of the gears, someway to verify that the trans is out of reverse before I refill with oil and let the car down?

Actually, I have already refilled and found that it's still stuck - so tomorrow AM I will give it another try - hope to hear from someone with the secret password!

Thanks, Goosh

[Goosh]

Gave it one last shot tonight and voila! it's out of reverse - re-drained, removed reverse lite switch, popped pin (drill bit) and sure enough the pin moved and I got it out of reverse - I'm thinking taking the ER brake off had something to do with it - fact or fantasy? Got it all done, plus some cleanup in just a tad over an hour! Lots of oil all over the place!

Tomorrow, I will try to set the coupler per John Walker's instructions per TD's suggestion. I'll keep y'all posted - thanks again for the help!

Goosh

[Scott R]

Let us know how it comes out.

[Goosh]

Okay - so I have it driving, but I have lost all confidence in it not getting re-locked in reverse - I adjusted per John Walker's instructions and took it out twice today.

I am going to install new clutch arm bearings and new helper spring and then readjust clutch to see if that enhances operation. I will keep you all posted.

Goosh

[redtdi96]

sounds like some kind of slop in the linkage, if it runs OK , when it runs then can't be worn parts.

[RoninLB]

Originally posted by redtdi96

sounds like some kind of slop in the linkage,

very wild guess [especially w/a newbie]


1] the main control rod between the shifter and tranny has a bushing and 2 bolt attachment. maybe the bushing or loose bolt attachment is binding the rod?

2] the long connector rod has a weld at the shifter end. The only way to really examine it is to pull it out when the tranny is down. I did that looking a for split forming when i replaced the shifter.

it may be damaged beyond the early stages. Although i never seen it happen i would figure in this case it may be evident just by removing the shifter and looking at the foreword end while it's still in the tunnel. Then again maybe you could hold the rod at the tranny end and moving the shifter to detect if there is slop.


that "heads-up" was tossed to me by a NW 915 guru

[Goosh]

Ronin LB - thanks for info, but I have just replaced shifter & coupler with new Wevo units, so there does not seem to be much slop from the shifter side.

I just replaced the bearings etc in the clutch release mechanism and then adjusted the cluth ... I think I'm making progress, seems to shift better and I now have the clutch pedal pretty close to the same height as the brake pedal (before there was and inch or two of difference).

When downshifting into third gear I am getting some grinding of the gears unless I shift it slowly. What is causing this? Do I need to re-adjust the coupler???

Also, I am at the very end of allowable adjustments on my new clutch cable - could not get the distance from the positioning lever and stop bolt to 1mm - started at 1.2mm but could not take it down to 1 - does this mean something?

Thanks, Goosh