Another Battery Thread - Some Questions
 

First, the battery in my '76 is a freaking HUGE 72 month Interstate thing. No kidding, it must weigh 30 lbs! Until recently, no problems but I drive the car very little these days. Probably every two weeks, so it is not getting charged. Took it off this weekend and charged it several hours, working now just fine (fingers crossed). No indicaton of when purchased - the little mo./day numbers on the date sticker were not pushed out but I've had it 2-1/2 years.

Second, some of that white battery acid powder was under the battery. Vac'd it out but a small residue of it remains. Didn't really want to pour 7-Up in there and then rinse and dry it thoroughly. Is there a better, drier waay to remove it? I've got no rust but the paint is starting to come off. I will prime and paint after cleaning. Suggestions appreciated.

Third, I think the way the battery sits is almost dangerous. The positive terminal is too damned close to the body. Plus, I cannot get a wrench in there to tighten the bolt on the positive cable.
I would like a somewhat smaller battery with the posts sitting up on top instead of the current ones that sit in a depression making the wrench hard to get on.

No, I don't want a wheel chair battery, an Odyssey or really, even an Optima unless the popluar opinion that one of these is "the only way to go". Not THAT concerned with the weight; more about accessibility and hold down. I'd be happy with a conventional battery that was just somewhat smaller (with adequate CCA) and with the posts more accessible. Advice appreciated (yes, I agree - drive it more!) Oh and pictures - especially how you are tightening that damn clamp would be greatly appreciated. - Dan

Dan--
Not sure if there is a drier way to handle the battery acid, but a mixture of baking soda (or baking powder - I forget which) and water made into a paste will neutralize the effects of the acid.

I went with the Optima Red Top for all the reasons you've pointed out - no more battery acid leaking, smaller size, lighter weight. The smaller size of the battery itself mitigates the issue of the tight fit - you simply have more room to tighten down all the connections appropriately and safely. The mounting adapter is simple to make out of a polycarbonate cutting board from Target (you have a choice of black or white).

Optima battery thread - credit to Ed Hughes for the excellent write-up and pictures.

Some Optima installations I've collected:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1184625798.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1184625858.jpg

Plus the Optima puts the positive terminal on the other side of the battery, not so close to the fender inner wall. No leaks either, nor any internal ( in the car) normal venting, which cannot be good for the nearby fuses and copper wiring, even if thebattery *doesn't* leak.....

Yeah..for all that..the Optima is the way to go. Or get a regular, smaller size battery with the vent nipple so that the venting (or splillage) can be carried away outside the car via an attached tube. Try a battery size 48/91 instead of 49/93....IIRC.

- Wil

BATTERY CONVERSION...
 

Dan,

I had a gorilla size battery in my car, I did the Hughes conversion to the Optima battery and it solves all the problems you mentioned in your post. As long as you have an acid filled battery you'll have some residue that is going to eat away at your paint and metal over time.

They say, I don't know this for a fact that the Optima battery will hold a charge longer than the wet cell battery. I think it's one of the best mods you can do for your car.

Okay, you convinced me. Optima it is. I'll break out the fab skills and get to it. Anyone know the cheapest source for them? Costco? Walmart carry them? Other?

I notice the Positive post and cable are still close to the body metal but if this mounting emthod is as solid as claimed I suppose it shouldn't be a woory. Besides, moving totheo front side posts move the terminal nearer the gas tank!:eek: which is not my idea of safe at all. I'm going for it. Thanks everyone. Dan

I just finished installing the Optima in my '87 coupe. After looking around I found that Auto Zone was as cheap as any of the so-called discounters!

Also, at the risk of being told I shouldn't spend my money that way, I purchased the ready made mounting plate from AJUSA. It is about $40.00 delivered to the door. The parts for the do-it-yourself version would have been around $15-$20. If I had the time I would have fabricated the mount, but right now my time is limited.

Dan, I know you'll like the Optima set up. I lived in Pasadena and surrounds for 50 years. Left in "94". I use to go to Roger Bursch's shop for work. I miss all the support people that are in the Pasadena area. There's not much you can't get done within 30 minutes of Pasadena.

Got mine at Costco - at the time, it was $20-$40 less than other places.

Don't forget to put a cover on the positive terminal - available at local auto parts supply for something like $2-$3.

POSITIVE POST COVER...
 

Steve,

Good suggestion... I've forgotten to follow through on that, thanks for the reminder.

Dan,
My '05 Optima weighs around 35 lbs. so it's no lightweight, but it's everything but. If you delete your spare tire, it'll be a wash. :) and a net weight savings.

FYI, our Costco (the one close to us that is) used to be $40 cheaper, but the most recent price is $150. Good thing they usually last a long time.

Sherwood

Good to know. I took a quick cruise through the AJUSA website and didn't find the mounting plate you mention though. It's not in there under "Batteries" that I could find, nor under "Accesories".

Excellent reminder to use the postive post cover.

Dan,
My fault. I had a problem finding it too. The part number is AJR 611 211. Use the search feature on their website and it comes up. Like I said, a little more expensive, but it was installed, the battery hooked up and the car running 15 minutes after FedEx left the driveway.

You will also need a 10” battery ground strap. Mine came from the local auto parts shop for less than $10.00. You will need this regardless of whether you fab your own mount or buy one ready made.

Some one earlier had referred you to Ed Hughes thread on this site. His info is very helpful.

Thanks for the part number. I just tried using it, but the part wouldn't come up. I'll have to give them a call. Thanks again though. I'm sure I'll find it.

Are you drilling holes in the battery to make the mounts, because my battery doesn't have any holes on those spots. My car came with a Yellow Top Optima, and seeing how it works, I haven't looked into changing it to a Red Top.

HOLES...
 

Kaliv,

The "Red Tip" battery has 2 each 1/4" holes on each of the long side of the battery. There's a possibility that Optima might have changed their design. I found it hard to find any "Customer Service" for the Optima. Plus my local parts house had a hard time finding a distributor for the Optima. So it might take some digging.

Scroll down to see Hughes pixs...

There are two Red Top's. I have seen both models mentioned in these forms. Like others, this caused me some confusion (no difficult task!). The model with the holes that Mitch speaks of is the 34/78 version. If I remember correctly, the Yellow Top version of this model also has the holes in the side.

I always thought the yellow top was a marine battery. Meant for use were the battery was allowed to discharge significantly.

I will stupidly admit I want a yellow top for the MOSt ridiculous of reasons...my car is yellow! But I understood you shouldn't use a yellow top for automotive applications. Am I wrong on this? I'm sure they would work, its just not designed for that use? True or false?

You can use a Walmart cutting board... cut to fit, as a mount under the battery. Works fantastic on my Red top... do a search.

-Troy

This thread is going around in circles.

Troy, you didn't read the earlier posts in THIS thread. The link to the thread with the cutting board is ALREADY in here along with pictures, etc. Thanks for the input though.

Dan,
From what I've read about Optima batteries the red top is designed as an SLI(starting,lighting,ignition) and will give the highest intial start voltage. The yellow top is deep cycle and can also be used for automotive, but you give up some cca voltage but a yellow top can be fully discharged more often.