Details, details...Headlight trim rings

[Wil Ferch]

Guys:

I've read the many posts on how to install the painted trim rings over Euro Bosch H4's. The core advice is to install the rings over *installed* ( on the car) headlight asemblies..not to install them on the lights before-hand. Here's an example answer from Early-S-Man--->

OK - How the heck do you install the H4 trimring

My situation however has a twist. The PO must have buggered up the original mounting tab on the car ( at 6 o'clock) and the only thing that works today is a US-thread bolt that holds my H4 in-place. (The retaining nut that is normally..?... welded to the backside of the tab on the car is not metric anymore. It's sized for this US bolt). Therefore, I am not using ( and cannot use) the metric hollow bolt at 6 0/clock. The OEM metric bolt is hollow and has an internal thread that uses a concentric *other* bolt to hold the top-cover trim ring in-place, w/o disturbing the "main" bolt.

Question. My H4 assembly is "installed" already. Should I simply back out my US-thread "main" bolt....all the while keeping the main headlight "in-place"....snap the H4 trim ring over this...then simply re-insert my odd US-spec main bolt over *both* the trim ring and main unit hole ??? Would this work or am I looking for problems? I ask because this---> Notice that the trim ring bottom hole area is "bumped" out a bit with a noticable air space behind. With my altered method, is there a need for a hollow sleeve to be used behind the trim ring, but on top of the headlight ring.... so that there is something "bearing" upon the main headlight ass'ly as this *one* bolt* gets tightened over both pieces ?? See what I mean?

Minor second question...can one drill out holes on the cover trim ring to line-up with the adjustment screws..and maybe push-in the (+) slotted rubber plugs that normally come with the US-spec sugar scoops in this new hole in the trim ring? That way I won't have to dink with removing the trim ring whenever I need to adjust.

Sorry...no pics...hope this text makes sense.

Thanks !

- Wil

[djdsc]

Try using one of these clip type units. They worked for me with the stock metric bolt.

Sorry I don't know what they are actually called.

[Zeke]

They're called speed nuts and can be had with machine thread as well. This would convert the tab back to spec for the hollow bolts. Me, I tossed a little weld in the boogered hole and re-tapped it. The reworked holes don't move around. Or, one could tack the speed nut with a spot weld.

[Wil Ferch]

yeah...speed nuts would work to re-introduce the original hardware...but I agree, Milt, I'd like them solid and not move around....

- Wil

[rusnak]

I have a similar situation and I am going to weld up the original 6 o'clock hole and then tap it for the original threads. I think the original hollow bolt arrangement was very efficient and clever, which is why I'm keeping it.

[Wil Ferch]

Can anyone tell me if the car...STOCK...ever had a nut welded to the backside of the lower mounting tab that takes this screw?

-Wil