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No Band
Join Date: May 2007
Location: The Casino
Posts: 3,901
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Hey Guys,
As most of you know, I have been doing quite abit of work to my car lately to bring her level of reliability up. I had planned on doing the pedal cluster rebuild sometime in the near future, but when I changed the fuel injection out on my car and put on the carburator I noticed that the gas pedal would get stuck in the wide open position (to the floor). I inspected and noticed that the factory bushings were not present on my accelerator pedal, so this prompted me to go ahead and purchase new brass bushings. I installed the new bushing on the pedal assembly and pressed the foot pedal to the floor and guess what.... it got stuck to the floor..... I got down and looked at the linkage and noticed that the piece that has both rods attached to it was stuck on the housing of the center tube that holds clutch cable etc. I bent it to the left and was able to get it freed up. I removed both rods and pulled this piece off the assembly and re-inspected it. Upon closer inspection, I noticed that the bottom part of the arm that holds the pin (that goes into the busings) was slightly bent, and that the factory weld had come loose which would allow the pin to move. I took the piece into a local welding shop and had the piece bent back about 1/8 of an inch and had the pin rewelded. I then had them place a piece of solid rod on the factory weld side of this piece and weld it in place to strengthen this arm. Total cost of repair $7. I put the piece back on the car and it works beautifully! The reason I have decided to make this post is for this reason. I had searched the forum and did not read anything that covered this repair except for the replacement of the busihings. Also after looking at the weld that was done by the factory (Almost looked like solder) I felt this was a repair that everyone should think of doing. It is very easy to pull this part off of the car without removing the entire pedal assembly, and eventhough your factory weld may be okay at this time, I would go ahead and have it rewelded and put a piece in to stiffen the arm. For safety's sake if nothing else. I would at the very least inspect that factory weld from time to time and check the arm for being straight. Basically what I found is when that arm bends a little to the right, it allows it to get caught on the opening of the center tunnel, which then keeps the pedal down. Cheap price to pay to save your engine, your life, or someone elses..... If you would like pics let me know.....
Last edited by futuresoptions; 08-08-2007 at 08:44 PM.. Reason: Change title |
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UFLYICU
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Great post and information. Kudos for searching for the info before posting, too. It keeps the redundancy in check. Pics are ALWAYS needed, if you can post them.
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_______________________ Racer Rix Spec911 #5 prc-racing.com |
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Registered Cruiser
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Pursuing Happiness
Posts: 3,892
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Nice job and I 2nd the pics...
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87' Carmine Red Carrera - Keeper 82' Silver SC - Sold 79' Gran Prix White SC - Sold 05' Black C2S - Daily driver I have never really completely understood anything. |
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No Band
Join Date: May 2007
Location: The Casino
Posts: 3,901
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Thanks, Will try to post pics sometime tommorrow evening......
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No Band
Join Date: May 2007
Location: The Casino
Posts: 3,901
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Sorry I didn't get pics out last night I got tied up (no not literally) and couldn't get to them. Anyway, I took a pic of where the pedal was getting stuck on the tunnel and included two pics of the repaired piece. By the way the repair was on a 1977 911S. Hope this helps you guys out, like I said earlier... for the cost of the repair, I would have this done whether or not you are having problems right now or not.... just to keep yourself on the safe side....
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Last edited by futuresoptions; 08-08-2007 at 08:41 PM.. |
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19 years and 17k posts...
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Thanks for the good info!
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Art Zasadny 1974 Porsche 911 Targa "Helga" (Sold, back home in Germany) Learning the bass guitar Driving Ford company cars now... www.ford.com |
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No Band
Join Date: May 2007
Location: The Casino
Posts: 3,901
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No Problem, One other thing.... if you haven't messed with this before, there is a small cotter key that hold this in.... you might want to look at it and pick one up before doing this job, mine was old and easily damaged when I pulled it out.
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Registered
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Great info, thanks for the post. Personally, I think you missed an excellent opportunity to buy a welder. Good job!!
Mike
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'78 911SC Targa (SCWDP member #17) '74 MGB (one owner) Pickup 2013 Ford Explorer Sport 2013 VW Golf TDI |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Langley,B.C.
Posts: 12,025
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This is a good thread, I had the same problem this week adjusting my new linkage for my ITB's. One runs into trouble (bending the bracket) if the arm is over extended.
Good pics about where the weakness is, mine is comming out in the morning for the weld (time to fire up the mig anyways... ) Cheers
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Turn3 Autosport- Full Service and Race Prep www.turn3autosport.com 997 S 4.0, Cayman S 3.8, Cayenne Turbo, Macan Turbo, 69 911, Mini R53 JCW , RADICAL SR3 |
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Registered
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A search on 'throttle bellcrank' returns several threads with a similar problem ... including this one:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=290868&highlight=throttle+bellcrank I suggest you ask one of the forum moderators to change the title of your thread to something a bit more meaningful, and related to the problem, such as "Throttle Bellcrank sticking at WOT!!!" It would seem that a couple of gussets would have been appropriate along with the welding, too.
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Warren Hall, Jr. 1973 911S Targa ... 'Annie' 1968 340S Barracuda ... 'Rolling Thunder' |
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No Band
Join Date: May 2007
Location: The Casino
Posts: 3,901
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Anything for you S Man!!! Done! You can't really tell but there is a piece of solid rod under those welds. And I do have a small mig welder but the bro in law has it at the time.....
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"HEY A$$MAN!!!"
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No Band
Join Date: May 2007
Location: The Casino
Posts: 3,901
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Well, It let me change it on this page, but not on the listing page..... I will get with a moderator.....
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"HEY A$$MAN!!!"
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Langley,B.C.
Posts: 12,025
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I took mine out to day, and welded it up similar to Futersoptions repair. Mine looked brand new when I took it out, nicely plated and all still. But, it was sticking as I toyed with all the linkage adjustments for the throttles. After welding and re installing it the part is now as stiff as a 16 yr old in a whore house!
It does not flex at all and does not hang up on the clutch linkage anymore. Thanks for the tip on this one. Cheers
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Turn3 Autosport- Full Service and Race Prep www.turn3autosport.com 997 S 4.0, Cayman S 3.8, Cayenne Turbo, Macan Turbo, 69 911, Mini R53 JCW , RADICAL SR3 |
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