Front Wheel Bearings

[rgdalacrity]

My front wheel hubs had a little back and forth sway in them when you grabbed the tire and rocked it side to side. I figured it was because of loose wheel bearings so I took it to the shop to have the front wheel bearings repacked and tightened along with some other unrelated repairs. I picked the car up without checking the work. The next day I shook the front tires and there was still some play. How do I check to see if the shop did indeed repack and tighten the front wheel bearings and is there supposed to be any play at all?

[tonythetarga]

Pull the front wheels off after safely supporting the car on jack stands. Get your channel lock pliers and grab the dust cover on the hub and tap the pliers with a hammer to remove the cover. Look inside at the bearing. If you see fresh grease that is a clue.
For tightness or adjustment, move the washer behind the nut up and down or back and forth. This is the unscientific part: the washer should be snug but not too tight. If the washer is a bit loose, loosen the allen head bolt on the retaining nut and tighten it a bit. Recheck the washer for play.
If you still have excessive play after all that, you might need new wheel bearings.

[rgdalacrity]

tonythetarga,

Thanks for the prompt reply. I will go check it out right now.

[jbrand540]

I fyou have trouble removing the dust cap a 2 inch exhaust clamp from the auto store works great. Just clamp it and pry with a hammer a little here and a little there as you continue to turn the clamp around the cover. It will pop off easy eventaully.

Saw the suggestion on the board awhile ago, since doing it that 2" exhaust clamp has many quick work of several tasks. Permanent addition to my tool box.

[RoninLB]

If bearings are still loose after confirming a tight washer the bearings are probably a replacement and the race was probably slammed into the hub instead of frozen and the hub heated.

[jaydubya]

Besides wheel bearings, the slop when you wiggle the front wheels can come from the strut-strut insert interface. And other less likely places.

[on-ramp]

first of all, to check for play, you grab the wheel TOP and Bottom, and wiggle UP and DOWN...
if you grab the wheel L and R and wiggle Left to Right, you are doing it wrong.

[rgdalacrity]

on-ramp,

Good point, I will try that.

[on-ramp]

Originally posted by rgdalacrity
on-ramp,

Good point, I will try that.

of course there will be play Left to Right because of the Tie Rod.
that's not how you check wheel bearings

[rgdalacrity]

on-ramp,

Thanks for the reply and before I try the correct method, is there supposed to be any play even in the slightest?

[on-ramp]

Originally posted by rgdalacrity
on-ramp,

Thanks for the reply and before I try the correct method, is there supposed to be any play even in the slightest?

no. btw, why are you even worried about this? is there steering wheel vibration at speed?
or any funny noises at very low speed while turning?

[buttjoint]

I may be wrong but I think ya have to have some play. I installed some new bearings and eliminated all the play very carefully thinking it could be done, Wrong, I ruined the new bearings and had to replace.

[rgdalacrity]

buttjoint,
Thanks for the reply and sorry about what happened in your case. Due to what you stated, I have decided to not worry about it and assume that there must be at least a little play and get on with my life. Sounds like I just described a health problem, oh, I forgot we are talking about a car.

[pmajka]

My Mech told me after having my bearings replaced, they may loosen up, and will need a readjustment while everything gets seated.

[Gunter]

Whether on a car, or for industrial application, a taper-roller bearing is installed, and adjusted, the same way.
No rocket-science; the Bentley describes it.
Seat the races agains the appropriate shoulders in the hub.
Smear EP2 grease into the rollers by hand.
Install the hub.
Torque the split-nut to specs while turning the hub by hand, then reverse (open) ccw slightly as described.
And yes, there is supposed to be a tiny, tiny play.
If you go to tight, you'll burn the rollers!

[GothingNC]

I am getting some low speed groaning noise on turns.

I jacked up the wheels and I only get a bit of play(or slack) on the D/S wheel when I rotate the wheel back & forth clockwise & counter-clockwise.

P/S wheel has no play when I perform the same test.

Is this another signof a worn wheel bearing?

Thanks !

[gtihop]

Jack up the car`and spin the wheel- any noise or roughness indicates worn bearings. Also put your hand on the strut while you spin the wheel. Any roughness will be transferred to the strut housing and you'll fell it- replace bearings. Do this to all 4 wheels.

[Gunter]

Gothing:
It helps if you give your year/type.
Turning it cw or ccw will do diddly squat.
Lift the car, grab the wheel at 6 and 12 o'clock, push/pull to check for axial play.
To check for radial play in front, you need to take the wheel off, push the braking pads back for 0 contact on the rotor, now spin the hub.
Very little play in front is o.k. for the taper roller bearings; the rear dual ball bearings should have no play.
The front can be adjusted/tightened if necessary, if the rear is tightened to specs and still has play, replace.
Ignore replacing 4 bearings, check them first and repack the front with EP2 grease.

[boyt911sc]

RDG,

The top and bottom wiggle check for the front wheels is a mandatory inspection for all cars in our club Tech Inspection before each DE. There should be a very slight percievable play on each wheel. Once my car failed the inspection and recommended adjusting the play or replace the bearing.

After several adjustments, the play (too much) was still present. New wheel bearings were installed and re-checked. Still the play was very noticeable. It turned out that the steering ball joints were both worn-out.

So the play on the front wheels could be attributed not only to wheel bearing play but also a worn-out steering ball joint or strut mount. Tigthen the wheel bearing nut (washer difficult to slide) and check for play. There should be very little or no play at all (steering ball joint - OK). Go back and re-adjust wheel bearing nut for the correct play.

Tony

[GothingNC]

Thanks Gunter & Tony.

The car is my 82 Targa.

I'll plan on pulling out the brakes pads and will check to see if I have any noticeable noise.

There is no play with the wheel on doing the push-pull test.

All suspension parts have been replaced about 20,000 miles ago (new ball joints, tierods, torsion bars, bushings, steerng column bushing, calipers rebuilt, new bearings etc) and the steering rack was taken apart by the PO and re-lubed.

After I re-grease the bearings, I'll clean out the caliper area, back of the brake pads and use some anti-squeal lube before I re-install the pads.

I'll see if this takes care of it.