coil to buy question

[ramonesfreak]

after doing some reading about coils and learning that they do have oil in them, and if they are leaking, then probably going bad, ive decided to order a new one. i do not know if my coil has anything to do with the power loss i experienced tonight, but i suspect it may... power loss suddenly

anyway im wondering, ive read that the sliver bosch coil is not reliable...is this one ok? its silver but i dont see any other alternatives
01-602-502-00-M14

if not, what do i get for a stock 83SC?

is anyone willing to provide some tips on disconnecting the old one and installing the new one....looks like i might be able to pry off what looks to be a cap which covers wires? i dont like just forcing things open without knowing what im doing. thanks


EDIT- it looks like its out of stock and pelican is telling me it can order a different one for $254. anyone know of a suitable one for under $100?
thanks alot

[ael911]

I use the Pertronix 45k volt epoxy coil ever since my silver Bosch coil leaked and left me stranded. The Pertronix is flat black and can be mounted in any position as it was designed to be used in heavy duty off road racing. It hasn't let me down yet. Here's the link...http://www.fastpts.com/cgi-bin/hazel-cgi/hazel.cgi?action=serve&item=pertcoils.html

[ramonesfreak]

thanks. i looked at the website..and will buy one as a back up to the silver one i bought on another website a few minutes ago for $75 which seemed like a good deal. im just not sure which one on that website your referring to to buy....its ok for an 83sc?

ive read this thread which was vrey interesting...but admit, im lost. im no electrical engineer....
ignition coil question, 911SC

[ael911]

Yep, I too agree the silver Bosch coils are iffy at best. As for the Pertronix coil, I bought the model at the bottom of the page, part number 45111. It should work fine with your cd box.

[ramonesfreak]

ok. ill call them tomorrow. can i mount it in the same location, on the fan housing -upside down. the way the original one is mounted now? ive also read that the MSD High-Vibration coil is alright to use with an 83. do you have any experience with this one?

[hbkramer]

Not wanting to rain on the parade,but do all of your homework b4 swapping coils out with substitutes and buying spares.

the resultant ignition damage of the wrong coil could cost lots more.Petronix may work ,but make sure it isn't frying your electricals/causing interference etc.
You're asking the right questions, just need more input
Try a search if you have not already.

[ramonesfreak]

ive searched the board for at least 4 hours regarding this issue and read everyword of every thread i could find.

what i find is, either extremely vague information, repeated comments about bad silver bosch coils, or highly technical information requiring an electrical engineering degree. all i want to know is- what coils are people using with CDI ignition systems once the stock -black bosch- coil is dead. ive ordered a silver bosch, which is suspect will dissapoint me, and ive ordered the Pertronix coil because ael911 says he has had succes with it. the Pertronix site says the coil is ok for CDI systems. i see there is some evidence to suggest the MSD Blaster coil can be used, but - i dont see any threads wherein it is mentioned that a CDI car is using one.

If anyone knows of a suitable replacement for a 911sc with CDI, please advise. Ive been stranded on bridges and other dangerous places over the years and its no fun at all.

[azasadny]

I've been using a Bosch blue coil in my '74 for several years and it's been the only component that I haven't had trouble with! I can't remember where I got it, but it's the Bosch blue coil and I have the Bosch CD setup.

[Scott R]

I ran across the same search dilema, one constant that I found in the archives was MSD 6A/6AL and Blaster II high vibration coil. And what do you know? I installed them both and they work perfectly. Oh and I have a much better spark on hot starts.

[Steve@Rennsport]

Scott:

You can use an MSD High-Vibration Blaster coil with your OEM Bosch CD ignition.

The Blue coil will work too, but we see a small power loss with that one as those are designed & intended for Kettering ignitions (point w/no CD).

[JP911]

Another option is to track down a used stock SC coil in good condition. That's what I'm using (I found them cheap, so I keep a spare in my car).

[ramonesfreak]

thank you...i will order a blaster..then ill have a total of 4 different ones to keep in the car..!

question. can i just install the MSD blaster using the existing coil wire? I thought i read a thread which suggested that it may require a different size coil wire..or else the wire may fall off?

[Early_S_Man]

Scott,

The Pertronix 45kV epoxy coil with 0.6 Ohm primary should work fine, as does the MSD 8222 epoxy coil, which I have tested extensively on Bosch and Permatune CDI units, and found no compatibility or reliability problems.

The Factory coils last forever ... until someone decides to pull off the coil wire while cranking in defiance of Bosch and Porsche instructions NOT to operate the CDI without a proper external load and spark gap. The coils will then 'flashover' internallly, arcing between secondary and primary ... causing overheating and sometimes, failure of the CDI unit!


Another problem area to check for on your engine is the famous green coax trigger cable from the distributor. If the insulation has turned dark brown, or is cracked, then the cable needs to be replaced ~ $60 from Pelican:

930-602-907-01-M14 Distributor Signal Cable, 911 (1978-83), 911 Turbo (1978-89)
Brand: Bosch $60.50

If your existing distributor doesn't have the short pigtail connector, then a two-pin Bosch FI connector [Amp Junior Timer connector] will need to be installed as detailed in the following thread:

The Green wire...

[hbkramer]

DAMN guys ...That's good data.Aint nothin vague about it.i appreciate it and i am sure scott does as well.
We are all fortunate to have this BBS. Thanks to Mr Dempsey!! Excellent buisness model Wayne !! I hope you are doing well.

[ramonesfreak]

ditto. thanks alot for the precise information !

[ramonesfreak]

Early_S_man, is this the trigger wire your talking about? if so, how does it look? the plug at the end of the wire, going to the base of the distributor looks beat up to me but the wire looks ok....?

a couple observations....it looks like the only way to remove this wire form the distributor is to remove the distributor...because the fan housing is too close making it impossible to pull the plug out of the base of distributor? if this is so, is the distributor removed by lossening the one bolt that is cearly visible...referred to as the mounting stud i think...page 280-3 (I believe) incorrectly has an arrow pointing to this bolt, BUT calls it the distributor housing lock-down fastener...

also, the other end of the green wire is wrapped up with other wires...i dont find what looks like a plastic plug...as seen in the pelican parts catalog. perhaps its there, but maybe my wire is many inches longer that what pelican parts shows and the plug is downstream somewhere and wrapped up in plastic tape. im not about to unwrap all the wiring if the wire is still good, but i like to figure out some things before problems occurr. maybe i just havent looked hard enough for the other plugged end?

[ramonesfreak]

regarding my above comments about the green wire... below is a pic of pelicans part. in comparison, my green wire would seem to be MUCH longer with only a plug at the distibutor end... maybe im missing something

[Early_S_Man]

Scott,

Yes, that is the infamous green coax! It doesn't look bad overall, but at the entrance point to the distributor the insulation has cracked or pulled out, ready for the shield to fray and the inner insulation to crack and cause a short ... which causes intermittent missing or engine shutdowns.

Regarding the lack of a connector close to the distributor ... here is the 2-wire AMP connector I referred that needs to be installed to connect to the repair cable from Pelican:

[ramonesfreak]

thanks...im unclear about a couple things (sorry)
where does the 2-wire AMP connector go? doesnt that come with the new wire from pelican?

what really confuses me is, where does the other end of my wire go, why is it so long and apparently doesnt look like the pelican replacement?

will i need to pull out the distributor to get the new wire in?

-thanks. i really appreciate it. all the 911 books i have are so vague that they are actually useless to me because i have no basic understanding of how cars are put together

[ramonesfreak]

Early_S_man, in trying to answer my own question i found this thread
Engine cuts out intermittently

In which you wrote:

It is not likely that you did anything to the coil ... more likely choice would be the famous geen coax to the distributor. Check to see if it is cracked or discolored, first, then see if the AMP Junior Timer connector is properly seated onto the pickup coil Faston tabs, or at the pigtail junction -- only about 7" - 9" upstream from the distributor ... on its' way to the CDI unit.

If all seems well, then I suggest cleaning the connector and tabs at both ends of the pigtail [if equipped -- some cars have one continuous piece of coax from distributor to CDI] with Brakleen or 91% isopropyl alcohol.

---Therefore im not sure how to replace this wire, as I think I have 1 long continuous wire. CAn I cut and splice the new piece to the old?