Just pounded out the bolt remains stuck in the cat. If I had torched off the nuts, this may have been less of an issue - the threaded ends of the bolts (toward the front of the car) seemed less stuck than the shanks on the muffler side.

The flanges are none the worse for the chisel pounding - the outboard edge now has a nice chamfer, but the rest stayed intact.

One caution about the chisel - the cat pipe extends rearward slightly beyond the flange split line, so if a chisel is pounded in too far, it will bend this 1/16" extension over a bit. Easy to pound back, but even easier to avoid

Took a couple of photos...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1186841916.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1186841957.jpg

When you re-install use SS bolts and Si -Br nuts.... old response repeated here-->

No...don't use messy anti-seize.....

Stock is 8mm x 40 mm length.

I've found almost identically sized ( US-size) stainless steel bolts and Silicon/Bronze nuts that allow easy on/off. Even the bolt head uses the same 13mm wrench, so the lack of metric basis shouldn't be a concern.

==================================

I'm talking about the "rest" of the exhaust system, which typically uses metric 8mm x 40 mm (long) bolts. I couldn't find the magic combination of both metric AND stainless / silicon-bronze. But I did find almost identically sized 5/16" bolts x 1.5" long under the head , 316 stainless , 18 pitch, I believe, partially threaded, and matching Si/Br nuts from one of the major industrial supply houses ( McMaster-Carr, Grainger, MSC). The nice thing is that the bolt head is 1/2", which makes a 12 or 13mm wrench a perfect fit for that too, just like the stock ones.

---Wil Ferch

EDIT - more info and testimonials here-->
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...+exhaust+bolts

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...+exhaust+bolts

Burgermeister,

Good job. See, there is light at the end of the tunnel. It is called Pelican (and some hard work).

Now your question is do you repair the entire exhaust system? This is the common question when faced with “While you are there”.

I recommend you wait until you must have the exhaust off the heads to finish the rehab. I suspect you can reasonably anticipate how difficult that will be. You will need to collect all the expendable parts in advance and be prepared to replace the exhaust studs in the heads. Occasionally that requires EDM removal and inserts in the heads. The exhaust head studs are relatively easy when the heads are off the engine, very difficult otherwise.


An issue here is our newer Porsches last so long we tend to ignore some serious long-term maintenance. Our earlier 911s needed disassembly much more often. Our later 911s (<20 years) will benefit from the same.

Part of this is lobbying (forcing with the power of the pocketbook) PAG/PCNA to provide the parts necessary at reasonable cost. PAG wants to only sell new cars. Owners want to maintain their nice old 911s. PAG seems to want to "price out" older 911 cars with high high spare parts prices (just like 928). Somehow the current PAG management wants to see the old cars go away and doesn’t want to support them. It is up to us to change that attitude and show PAG the value of our continued support. IMHO PAG management is spending the capital earned by the likes of Dr. Ferdinand Porsche, Dr. Ferry Porsche and many dedicated employees. I’m not sure it is being replaced - other than spent with some quarterly bottom line.

I’m capable of buying a new GT3 something – or several. I haven’t because of the lack of PAG customer (like me) DIY support. Aah, I long for Frau Baer. That system can be done today - if PAG chooses what is best.

Sorry for the rant. I have posted on this subject before. It never hurts to see the big picture.

Burgermeister, good for you figuring out how to save your muffler straps. After i posted, i realized I should have included that but you beat me to it. :D

Best,
Grady

Glad you got them apart. For the brain trust, the Sears Craftsmen, "Bolt Out" sockets really work well for rounded off nuts or bolts (as seen on TV with Bob Veila!). They have biting threads in them that cut into the metal. I wish they had them 30 years ago.

Get a cat bypass.

Using stainless steel bolts for the exhaust is highly recommended but I still apply some anti-seize to facilitate removal in the future. That's why this stuff is called anti-seize. Messy but very functional.

Tony

Car is up and running again :) , tested, no leaks from new hose (...and there was much rejoicing). Will have to disassemble it once more - for a muffler gasket (the flanges appear to seal just fine without one, btw - so they didn't distort at all) that I don't have yet, and I'm an impatient fellow - a week without can't be too bad.... and for SiBr nuts - locally I could only find SS (the 5/16 size is a perfect fit, thanks for the suggestion), and the SiBr ones will be another week to arrive I suspect.

I intend to coat the new SS bolts in their entirety with antiseize, and I do not intend to touch anything else unless it needs it - two kids and a budget are a surefire cure for "while you're in there" disease....

AC bracket went to keep the compressor company in a shiny plastic storage bin. Engine compartment access is improving rapidly!

Again, thanks to everyone for all the suggestions, as well as just the "moral support", which is probably just as helpful.

Friend swears by:

Heat it w/ a torch, press an old candle to the bolt end, the wax will wick through the joint. Do several times from both ends. He says it's fail safe...

Worth a try, maybe.

this is easy....dremel tool, 3 or 4 cutoff wheels, and cut your nuts off :eek:
yes, just cut them at an angle, and use a punch to peel them from the bolt...don't waste anymore time on any other method...trust me on this, I've been down this exact road before....:D

boyt911sc:

I know why it's called anti-seize... I also know you need it if you use stainless on stainless ( at least of the same chemical composition). The point is why do it if you can go SiBr for nuts and SS for bolts.. self lubricating therefore anti-seize not necessary.

- Wil