clutch gone at 9000 miles

danaf · 08-23-2007, 08:26 AM

Lost my clutch on the way to work yesterday. Figured it had to be the cable, since it only had about 9000 miles on a new clutch that was done when the motor and tranny were rebuilt. The cable, it now seems, didn't break. What did? (1980 SC)

Mo_Gearhead · 08-23-2007, 08:37 AM

Clarification first: you have had someone operate the clutch while you watch the clutch arm move? Thus eliminating broken pedal cluster, cable and cable ends?

BrokeMyCar · 08-23-2007, 08:53 AM

Welcome to the board - you should post a pic of your car!

About the dropping clutch, if you don't have anyone handy you can put a digital camera under the car in movie mode, then go push on the pedal. That's how I found out my omega spring wasn't working:

http://youtube.com/watch?v=KCxNEbwUhAU

(it should return to be right next to the heat-exchanger)

If you do open up the pedal cluster, the pedal/lever relationship should look like this:

http://youtube.com/watch?v=ts3xUKhKwNs

Without all the play, of course.

Good luck!

Babak

danaf · 08-23-2007, 09:14 AM

I was grinding reverse a couple of weeks ago, so adjusted the cable. It looked ok. Yesterday morning it started grinding in reverse again and then the clutch loss a few minutes later. The pedal ended up on the floor. Had it towed to a nearby garage and they put it up on a lift and claimed the cable was intact. Haven't had a chance to look myself. Before the clutch went, I heard a scream from the rear on the last two shifts and then no clutch.

BrokeMyCar · 08-23-2007, 09:22 AM

Perhaps the gradual grinding could mean the cable was unwinding? The pedal roll-pin is still a contender.

DW SD · 08-23-2007, 10:03 AM

I think bent / broken clutch arm in the 915 is possible, too.

jtfreels · 08-23-2007, 11:12 AM

I have to agree with the throwout arm being broken. What you are describing is exactly what happened to mine.
I rebuilt the pedal cluster, replaced the clutch cable, when all that failed, I dropped the engine to find the broken arm.

Jay

danaf · 08-23-2007, 11:58 AM

The disc the plate and the bearing were all that was replaced when the clutch was done the last time. Never even considered the arm. Will this mean replacing all the clutch components all over again? Live and learn, I guess. If so, is the super clutch kit the best option?

Mo_Gearhead · 08-23-2007, 02:32 PM

"9000 miles on components."

If it is just the 'arm'...I would say no need to replace anything else. You will be able to see any additional damage when you get in there, then decide.

You ARE however looking at an engine drop to do the repairs. Sorry.

jtfreels · 08-23-2007, 03:01 PM

When mine broke it was time for a new clutch, but I also replaced the throw out bearing, if you didn't replace that with your clutch you might consider it.

Jay

rallyracer · 08-23-2007, 04:44 PM

I used the super clutch kit and also replaced the guide tube, oring and flywheel. Makes it easy to know you have all the parts.

This falls under "while you're in there" and now you know why to do it all at once. Don't feel too bad. I had to pull mine back out cuz I cut the oring on the guide tube and it leaked. Then I bought another disk (didn't need it) in case fluid was on it.

David

Turboo934 · 08-23-2007, 08:10 PM

Check clutch pedel shear pin.I finally replaced it with a case harden one.Good first place to look.

Carl Bauer · Carl Bauer's Garage

I had the pedal cluster roll pin shear in half as well. It's a quick check.