leaving a trail of oil as I drive.

[slodave]

Hi!

I am frustrated! I spent many weeks in 100+ degree weather last year fixing oil leaks and replacing a clutch last year and was very happy when I had I saw that no oil was dripping on the ground. A year later, and things are worse than before my fixes, but the leaks are in new places. I am not leaking oil from the top side of the engine.

John Walker suggested that I need to gut the chain boxes in order to fix the drip in the big circle. I need to bite the bullet and take the plunge on this. My car is becoming non drivable because of these leaks (not the circled nut), but I have others that I need to investigate, but I think the left chain box is leaking as well, I know both chain coves are, but I think that the seal at the number 8 bearing is leaking as well <- I'm not sure if this is the right term.


Can I do this work with a partial engine drop? My gut tells me that engine out would be best. BTW, I've never timed an engine in my life and I am looking forward to the experience.

TIA for any help that can be offered! I feel guilty driving my car, as I throw oil on the car behind me Not to mention, it seems like I lost a quart in less than two hundred miles - 99.7% from external leaks.

Dave

[450knotOffice]

Dave, I PM'd you back.

Don't worry, you'll get her back out on the road and this time she'll be leak free! While you are in there, you might as well powdercoat everything, like I just did.

[slodave]

Looks like I will also get the chance to replace all the intake gaskets as well. I bought those a few months ago, but have been waiting for a rainy day - looks like I have it!

My dad suggested that I don't park in the driveway of their house right now

[slodave]

Bump....

I have a pretty good idea of what I am going to do, but since I don't have experience with this, can anybody give any ideas, gotchas, etc. I pm'd John Walker and he gave me a bit of info. Thanks!

Dave

[rnln]

Slodave,
man... I have to admire you for working on your car at this weather. I still have several things need to be done but I have to put everything on hold, hopefully it will be ok until it's chil out a bit. It's almost 100 today. Tomorrow will be worse I hate the heat. Not just the heat itself but there are so manything change in our cars performance since it's hot, do you agree? The AC alone eats 3 big cans of 134A in 2-3 weeks, that's $30+ (and I just "discovered" that I can do the refill recently).
I just did 1 of my valve cover gasket recently and it's dry now, happy. Good luck with yours. Maybe we can have a coffee while listening to our engine running and talk about leak free some days

[slodave]

Originally Posted by rnln

Slodave,
man... I have to admire you for working on your car at this weather. I still have several things need to be done but I have to put everything on hold, hopefully it will be ok until it's chil out a bit. It's almost 100 today. Tomorrow will be worse I hate the heat. Not just the heat itself but there are so manything change in our cars performance since it's hot, do you agree? The AC alone eats 3 big cans of 134A in 2-3 weeks, that's $30+ (and I just "discovered" that I can do the refill recently).
I just did 1 of my valve cover gasket recently and it's dry now, happy. Good luck with yours. Maybe we can have a coffee while listening to our engine running and talk about leak free some days

Thanks! I actually was not planning to work on it now, but, as it turns out, I have the hanger available for the next month. My dad is flying the plane to S.D. tomorrow for its annual and then has hand surgery that'll prevent him from flying for a bit.

The leaks are becoming worse every time I drive. I have even switched to straight 40 weight and may order a case of 50 wt. The weather changed today and it is much warmer. It sucks, last year I worked in 120 degree heat. This needs to be done for my sanity, driving the 911 takes my mind off of my problems.

Since the exhaust is coming off, I will take the opportunity and replace oil return tube gaskets too and what ever else is leaking. This engine will reach 300,000 miles before its first tear down!!!

Yeah, when the car is dry, we'll meet up.

Dave

[safe]

Originally Posted by slodave

Hi!

Can I do this work with a partial engine drop? My gut tells me that engine out would be best. BTW, I've never timed an engine in my life and I am looking forward to the experience.

Dave

It might be done with only a partial drop, but I think it would be less work to drop the engine.

When I replaced my timing chains I removed one of the chain housings and timed my cams. I would not like to have done that with the engine in the car.

[slodave]

Originally Posted by safe

It might be done with only a partial drop, but I think it would be less work to drop the engine.

When I replaced my timing chains I removed one of the chain housings and timed my cams. I would not like to have done that with the engine in the car.

Hey thanks!

I have decided to drop the engine. I will take the opportunity to adjust the valves and some other misc. items as well.

Dave

[ischmitz]

Just one comment. If you really have a leak at the #8 nose bearing you pretty much have to split the engine to fix this. This essentially comes down to a full rebuilt. Everything else is minor compared to this.

You most likely need to R&R the chain housing to camtower seal (new O-ring and paper gasket) to fix your leaks. While you are in there replace the paper gasket for the little cap over the intermediate shaft. Check, if any of the through bolts are leaking and check if the rocker shafts are leaking. Replace the flywheel seal and maybe the engine oil cooler O-rings.

And yes, I agree that dropping the engine is the way to go. It will be a lot easier to work on things especially since this is your first time. Good luck and keep us posted on progress.

Ingo

[slodave]

Originally Posted by ischmitz

Just one comment. If you really have a leak at the #8 nose bearing you pretty much have to split the engine to fix this. This essentially comes down to a full rebuilt. Everything else is minor compared to this.

You most likely need to R&R the chain housing to camtower seal (new O-ring and paper gasket) to fix your leaks. While you are in there replace the paper gasket for the little cap over the intermediate shaft. Check, if any of the through bolts are leaking and check if the rocker shafts are leaking. Replace the flywheel seal and maybe the engine oil cooler O-rings.

And yes, I agree that dropping the engine is the way to go. It will be a lot easier to work on things especially since this is your first time. Good luck and keep us posted on progress.

Ingo

Hi Ingo,

Flywheel seal and oil cooler oil rings were done last year when I replaced the clutch. At the moment, some of the oil 'leaks' may just be oil running down to the lowest spot on the engine and dripping in the back. I was thinking of going to one of those outdoor U-wash places and see if I can't clean the bottom of the engine a little, to better see where some of the leaks are. Maybe throw in some dye.

I will check out the rocker shafts.

I thought there was a seal at the opposite end of the flywheel that can be replaced without splitting the case...

Dave

P.S. I know the engine should be rebuilt, but I cannot afford to do that. I either try and fix the leaks and buy some time or I put the car up on blocks in the next month, cancel insurance and don't renew registration in a couple of months. Then, maybe next year I can scrape the money together and tear down the engine.

[ischmitz]

The cleaning is a good idea. It will help you to narrow down where the oil is coming from. The #8 nose bearing sits in an O-ring and you need to split the case to get to it. There is another O-ring seal at that end of the engine. Its on the cover plate over the bearing for the intermediate shaft. The cover is held in place with two M6 screws. That O-ring can be replaced easily.

Even if you have done the flywheel seal and the oil cooler seals it might not hurt to do them again. Once the engine is out it will be pretty obvious if there is a leak at the FW seal. The clutch has to come off anyways for inspection. So taking off the flywheel is not too much more work. Maybe have it resurfaced while you are in there and get a new clutch disk for 100 bucks.

Ingo