Fog lights and ?s

[911s55]

Install of my new never installed lower fog lights on my 71' (thanks for the "lead" Michael,) bad wire pun, curious as there are two sets of wires in fender well still with plastic ties from factory, seems I have no power at either set, will check fuse panel, wire and switch. Is addtional pair for through grill, and regarding bulb wattage, inside of light assembly calls for 55w H3 and owners manual has 35w. Checked five different local sources for 35w, could only find 55w, would I be ok with 55w or do I need to make wiring, relay changes, also any place to get non fancy smancy (inexpensive) 35w bulbs.
Thanks for future enlightenment!!
David

[ossiblue]

David,

When you say you don't have power to either wire, did you turn on the headlight switch as well as the fog light switch when you ran your test?

[911s55]

After some research , found I need high beams on as well, and now have power to lights, not crazy about that feature but will look into it later.

BUT NOW

NO PARKING, DASH, INTERIOR, TRUNK LIGHTS OR CLOCK!!!!

Checked and replaced fuses, they're good. Did have trunk open for quite a while, but had switch taped off.
Back in my old Mercury days this would indicate "Headlight Switch"! But the clock too?

What's next?

David

[Joe Bob]

Fogs should run when the LOW beams are on....fogs and high beams don't mix.

High beams just make the fog WHITER.....you want to illuminate UNDER the fog.

If you have "driving lights"....then they should come on with highs and really should be on a seperate circuit.

[911s55]

Thanks Mike,

I understand the principles of bright light aimed high reflective to fog, they'll probably end up being drIving lights.

I seem to have bigger fish to fry now, NO night time driving!

David

[911s55]

still dark bump

[ossiblue]

David,

First question, is this loss of lighting new, meaning after your hunt for fog light power?

Second question, did you move, disconnect/reconnect, stick your hand into, any wires while trying to power the fog lights?

The trunk, clock, interior lights and glove box lights are on the same simple direct circuit fused by fuse #1 in fuse box I. Check to see if you have power on both sides of that fuse as it should be powered at all times and is not switched. If you don't have power on the battery side (test the wire, not the fuse bracket) it should be a fairly simple job to track down as it's a direct connection to the battery. If the wire is hot, clean the connectors to the fuse block (both sides), reconnect the hot wire, put in a new fuse and test both sides. Now the only reason why you wouldn't have power to the circuit is the fuse. If you get power on the fused side and the lights, clock, etc. still don't work, then there is a break somewhere in the wiring--maybe a connector, I'm not sure.

Your parking lights are on separate circuits which, I believe, are fused by #5 and #6 fuses in fuse box II, but they are also controlled by the headlight switch, as are the dash lights (by the way, don't forget the dash lights are on a rheostat and maybe you accidentally turned them off when you were trouble shooting the fog lights.) If you replaced these fuses (again, check you have power on both sides), then I would suspect a loose connection. Try following the wire loom from the fuse box. Many times there is a connector somewhere along the loom that works loose. Check the connection on the headlight switch. Check the grounds.

[911s55]

Found source of power failure!

One of the three main hot leads at battery has come out of molded rubber insulator. It powers all of the down circuits.

I love it when these frustrating "little" things happen at home in the garage, turning out to be a blessing in disguise, and don't end up being a nightmare situation on the road!

Thanks for everyones guideance and advise, still have to finish with fog/driving light situation and repair of cable ends.

David

[ossiblue]

David,

Great news, and thanks for informing the board of the resolution. Every problem solved is a potential solution for someone in the future.