Tilton starter failed twice in a row...why???
 

A few weeks ago, my year-and-a-half-old Tilton lightweight starter failed. Not the solenoid or anything external, a failed motor. Had it removed, sent out for rebuild and replaced. Drove the car a total of maybe 50 miles and a few minutes ago, it happened again. Just a click when I turn the key--not a solenoid click, a relay click and nothing from the starter.

Does anybody know of anything in the electrics of an otherwise perfectly functioning car, no known electrical problems, excellent Optima battery, good charging, that could lunch a starter motor? (It's admittedly a 25-year-old SC but recently totally rebuilt.)

Or am I just the victim of a bad repair or lightning striking twice?

Sounds like either a big coincidence or something in the electrical system.

Check the battery and starter motor ground straps (you probably did already). If you can check the source voltage at the starter motor during cranking. Compare with source voltage at the battery during cranking. Should be the same. Any difference indicates a voltage drop due to bad/loose connection(s).

If the battery is okay, cranking voltage should be >9 volts.

If the system checks out okay, I'd remove the starter assy. and bench-test it. Could be a faulty rebuild. All it takes is a bad solder joint somewhere.

Sherwood

My Tilton also failed. Two months, in fact, after I installed it. A track day seemed to really do it in. I bought a cheaper Japanese version, which has worked perfectly for two years.

dd74,
can you tell a little more about the "cheap japanese version" which worked perfect for 2 years now?

Steve,

Hard to say without knowing what exactly failed both times. Was it a problem with the stationary winding, the bearings, the brushes or the rotor?

Did whatever he fixed go south or was it something else?

Ned

Oh man...I don't like the words "Tilton" and "failed" in the same sentence.

Bob,

Maybe it was too short to engage properly?

A Tilton starter uses Hitachi components. But just for the heck check the ground maybe attach a number 4 ground cable (short length) from the starter to the chassis for a test. Be sure to have the ground between the trans mount and chassis checked also.

regards

Hi - yes. First I should clarify "cheap" as less expensive. As to the starter, I believe our host, Pelican Parts, offers it.

The Tilton grew progressively more difficult to start, until one day, after a track event, it just up and died once I stopped on the street. I'm not sure if engine heat was the culprit or a simple mechanical failure in the starter, but it was dead. Regardless, several on this board as well as my engine mechanic suggested the version Pelican sells as more than viable and essentially the same weight as the Tilton. So I went with that, and have been problem free since. I believe the Pelican version is about $200 less than the Tilton. I'm not sure, though.

I typed in "tilton" and nothing came out of my Pelican search. Is the Tilton starter in discussion the High-Torque starter our host sells?

If so, I have owned 2 of them for over 5 years and they have been problem free?

If they are not the same, please ignore my post.:p

same, essentially

The other torque reduction starter uses Nippon Denso parts (not the same as Hitachi). Also available from Ebay.

Sherwood

I can't answer your "why" but I have had two Tilton's fail completly in 3 years. I went the 'other brand'. After a year and a half so far so good.

Randy - PM'd you a response to your question from earlier today.

Thanks.

SmileWavy

So you meant you went with the "High Torque Starters" from PelicanPart ad it has ben good?
Thanks.