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Basic Wire Splicing?
OK so this might seem like a little thing but those are the ones that always seem to get me in the end.
What is the "right way" to splice into turn signal/tail light wires? I am installing trailer wiring (for a mini track tire and jack trailer) and I want to make 100% trouble free, never have to think about it again splices. The wiring kit came with squeeze down connectors similar to these: http://news.thomasnet.com/images/large/451/451197.jpg First of all they look really bad and second I am pretty sure using these will have me doing a pocket knife and racers tape repair in a McDonald's parking lot during a thunderstorm and while such stories of my misery are always a hit at happy hour I would just assume not. Anyone have a trade secret, never fails wire splicing formula they care to share? |
soldering is the best in my book and then shrink tubing to cover the splice, it's strong, reliable and lasts and is very neat. I hate those cheap plastic things and you're right about doing a repair in some parking lot with thunder banging in the background and rain coming down like cats and dogs.
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don't use scotchlock type connectors......they will eventually fail and sometimes break the wire it's tapped into.
i would strip back the wire to be tapped, use a test light or pick to separate the wire which you will wrap your added wire through, then wrap it around tightly and tape, put a zip tie around the tape and splice and it will never ever fail. you could solder if you want a permament connection. |
You're right about that rubbish pictured at top.
A second on the soldering and heat shrink tubing. Can't fail, ianc |
Solder.
Then use "liquid electrical tape" over the joint to prevent moisture. Then use heat shrink tubing with an adhesive center. |
Try this thread for some ideas: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=249698&highlight=western+union+so lder
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I've used those crap connectors and a year or two down the road, had the main wire break........Then I'm TU..............
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Scotch locks are good to get you back on the road if you break down somewhere, and then promptly repaired correctly when you get home!
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Previous posts said it all....
If it's inside the car, you could use a crimp splice and run a pigtail off one of the ends - but it's almost as much work as soldering, and still not as good. |
for entertainment
In one of my marine wire books...marine ABYC standards is satisfied w/quick connections if it will stay together with a 10# pull on #18 wire and a 40# on #10 wire pull or more. And have a voltage drop of under 50mV w/a 20 amp current. |
Thanks for the information, I knew those things just didn't seem like a good idea.
The link to the previous discussion was also very helpful, not sure how I missed that one when I searched... |
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