Is the firewall structural?

[1966 2.0L]

Hello everybody I just have a couple of questions.

First of all I have a 67 that that I am trying to get on the road again after sitting in a garage for 11 years. I pulled the insulation off the firewall and found this.


So I pulled the engine and trans to be able to get to it so I can then sand and paint. But I am starting to think it would be easier to cut out the panel and weld a new one in. Would it be safe to cut out the vertical section of the firewall without having to weld a brace in to keep the unibody from tweaking?

Secondly, does anyone know if someone makes a replacement firewall, or do I have to have one fabricated? I have looked but not been able to locate one.


Thanks in advance,
Greg

[ossiblue]

Greg,

It's hard to tell from your photo, but is the firewall that bad? I mean, is the metal thin? If you were thinking of sanding and painting I would guess that it is still pretty solid. Before you decide to cut and weld, how is the inside of the same area, including the package tray under the windshield, seat backs, and seat pans? Have you removed all the horsehair? If this was my project, I'd check those areas too and if rusted, then I'd consider replacing the sections with donors from a parts car.

I don't know of replacements (new) for just the firewall.

[Zeke]

Even if there are some holes in it, I'd do everything to save the original. Look above at the package tray. That's where the real damage usually occurs. Look especially near the deck lid hinge mounting points and over towards the rear quarter windows. Then, look under the rear wheel well below the windows. After that, look at the back of the strike plates.

You may have to clean off some undercoating to get a clear picture.

[1966 2.0L]

Ossiblue-The problem with the metal is after I started to sand I found a lot of pits, and to get those out the metal would be pretty thin. Also to get in the nooks and crannies I pretty much have to use a Dremel and the time it would take seems like it would be easier just to replace the panel. I have removed the horsehair, but not the interior. I will do that tonight and get back to you.

Milt- From what I have seen the firewall seems to be the worst spot on the car, and the package tray seems in good shape just some light rust. I will check the wheel wells again when I am removing the interior but all in all a very solid car, it was well maintain before it sat for so long and I believe the car has been re-coated in the past.

Thanks Guys,
Greg

P.S. Is it normal for the floor pan underneath to look galvanized and epoxied on? Still trying it figure out exactly what I have here, I am a newbie to Porsches

[JohnJL]

Replacing it would be fun, especially if you try to get the "ribs" in there. By the way, one of mine was signed "Helmut" in cursive, yellow grease pen on the passenger side!

"While you are in there" depending on your originality goals you might weld in strut braces ala RSR in case you ever want to go coil-overs.

[Evans, Marv]

POR-15 !!!!! Even with a bunch of small perforations, it should be structurally fine. That is unless it really has a lot and you push your hand through it when you try to clean it. Put metal prep on the rust, clean it off several times with a wet rag & paint it. You can force the POR-15 into the nooks & crannies with a brush or let it dribble into them. Once it encapsulates the rust, it won't go any farther.

[1966 2.0L]

Well thanks everyone after seeing what it takes to get to it from the passenger compartment and your advice I will just remove what rust I can and use POR-15. Especially after seeing some very nasty tar covered horsehair they call insulation.

The only other rust I have found was a bulge/mound in the upper part of the wheel well on the passenger side(not going to say what it looks like). Can someone tell what that is for? The strike plates look like they have been repaired before and seat bottoms are not rusty at all.