front mount cooler install question
 

I have a quick few questions about installing an ER front mount cooler.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1190496174.jpg
1. What are the rubber pucks with the two bolts stick out that I got in the kit?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1190496255.jpg
2.Which line is the oil in and out in my fender mount? I remember somewhere reading that it is better to start with the biggest cooler first then into the smaller cooler second when running them in series. Is that what I should do?

Any other helpful hints would be great.


Thanks,
Scott

ok, i think the black pucks are used between the car and the brackets to help with vibration.

The little rubber thingies are to mount between your mounting brackets and the oil cooler itself. The rubber isolates vibration, etc. On your Carrera cooler the inside oil line - nearest to the trunk - is the oil line to the oil cooler. The outside or neaest the fender opening carries the "cool" oil back.

FMOC rock.

If you don't have a thermostatically-controlled fan on the fender-mount cooler, I'd junk it completely, just do whatever is necessary to get airflow through the FMOC (my tub is dished).

Unless you really want the extra quart or so of oil capacity (which also stays there on oil changes, so it's not all good).

If I did a lot of traffic work I'd probably think about fitting a thermo-fan, otherwise it's not required, IMO. My car held oil temps at 220-230 for 600 miles of cruising/boosting in ambients well over 105F during a CA heatwave last July, it'll also get nearly that hot in stop-start traffic jams after about 15-20 minutes, but just doesn't seem to get any hotter.

Otherwise, with any air movement at all through the FMOC, it'll run 180 on the street and never tops 190 on-boost. PO reported it ran about 210 on the track.

YMMV.

Yes i do have a fan for the fender mount. I also have a 934 bumper so the cooler is going to get a ton of air over it. But i see your point.

Well i am pretty close to getting everything on the car. The big hang up now is undoing the connectors on the fender mount. I have never tried so had to unscrew anything in my entire life (i have tried much harder trying to go the other way ;) ) I used about half a can of PB blaster with no luck, anyone have any hints. If i can't get it off with my brothers help i guess i an going to have to cut out the line.

Thanks,

Scott

On my car, the PO fitted a Ruf bumper cap and dished the body behind the FMOC for airflow. If it were mounted up tight to the tub in the position dictated by the oil-cooler cutout without the dishing, the top 1/3 or so would be basically "blind" and it wouldn't get nearly as much air through it as it does.

I think some people have had luck applying heat, but I don't envy you that one... Good luck!

Some coolers fit better thatothers in a Ruf bumper cap

obviously the Ruf cooler is best(and by far the most costly)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1190753403.jpg

B&B makes a couple of coolers that fit very nicely in The Ruf cap and are far more cost effective as well as thermally effective.
here's my B&B in a Ruf cap.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1190753551.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1190753614.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1190753639.jpg

No mods to the tub are needed, no fender cooler needed, kept the 3.8RS at ~180 F at all times.

Well i tried to chisel, PB blaster and heat and with no luck. I the other connector that i cut off had lock tight in it so i think this one might be screwed. Any other ideas? I was thinking if i could find a double male end connector i could tie the new line into the old line. God i can't wait for this three month project to be over with :(

Scott

There are two fittings on each hose so you have four chances of removing them. If the first two aren't successful on the car, I'd suggest removing the entire external cooling system from the car. Start from the oil tank area, then drop the oil lines, thermostat and fender mount cooler.

Once off the car and on the ground, you'll have much better leverage and access to the existing cooler hose and fittings. Heat and longer levers are your friends. Don't forget to counter hold the fitting so you don't twist and crush the rigid lines or destroy the cooler. Use anti-seize on the threads when you install/assemble the new parts.

Sherwood