Carb and Oil Questions for my 69 hotrod

[t6dpilot]

I have some basic questions for which I would like some opinions from this illustrious board. This is for my 69 2.2L lightweight.

1. The oil pressure on this car has always indicated really low. About 20 psi at 3700 revs. Drops a little when it is hot. Indicates a little higher when cold. I have always wondered about calibration, but the gauge was rebuilt by No Hollywood Speedo within the last few years. Could the sender be bad or is it possible that the gauge is out of calibration? BTW - no real oil consumption and the car runs beautifully. Just changed my oil with 10-40 dino oil and now it barely indicates on the gauge. Lighter viscosity oil?
2. My car has always stumbled a bit below 2400 revs and then just comes on like gangbusters. It is obviously worse when cold and kind of acts like a race motor when at low revs, but is a much milder version of that type of rough running/stumbling. I run Weber 40 IDA carbs with 135 main jets, but don't know the other specs for the idle jets or emulsification tubes. It is not a big deal, but was wondering if anyone has some suggestions on this.
3. Anybody have an idea where I can get a Haynes Weber Maintenance Manual so I can educate myself on these carbs?

Thanks for your help.

[ttweed]

Originally Posted by t6dpilot

The oil pressure on this car has always indicated really low. About 20 psi at 3700 revs. Drops a little when it is hot. Indicates a little higher when cold.

My 2.0S engine does the same, and has for years. Gauge drops to "0" on idle. No problems in many miles.

I have always wondered about calibration, but the gauge was rebuilt by No Hollywood Speedo within the last few years. Could the sender be bad or is it possible that the gauge is out of calibration?

The only way to know is to connect a known good (calibrated) gauge to the circuit and compare readings. Beside the gauge and sender, there could be wiring issues.

My car has always stumbled a bit below 2400 revs and then just comes on like gangbusters.

2400-3000 is where you are transitioning from the idle circuit to the mains. Webers commonly have a flat spot there. Bigger idle jets may help, as well as changing emulsion tubes. The only way to know what's happening is to measure A/F ratios with a wideband sensor, preferable in a dyno session where you can try different combinations of jetting, etc., under varying loads. Today's fuel formulations are quite different from when your car was new. Factory settings from then may not be as appropriate today.

Anybody have an idea where I can get a Haynes Weber Maintenance Manual so I can educate myself on these carbs?

Amazon.com

HTH,
TT

[shbop]

Scott, I bought the Haynes book last year, after a search on-line. I can't remember the vendor, but it wasn't hard to find.

My book shows the following stats for settings:

Main Venturi, Main, Air, Idle, Emulsion Tube

2.2E 30 125 180 55 F26

2.2S 32 130 180 55 F3

2.2T same as L

I'm sure these are simply basic starting points. Hope it helps.

[t6dpilot]

Thanks guys. Your answers were a big help. Interesting to hear, Tom, about your oil pressure issue also. The gauge actually moves up and down with revs, but just does not indicate the correct pressure reading. Yesterday driving home, it indicated about 30 psi at 4,000 revs and dropped below 0 at idle, but did move up and down with rev change. All must be fine, I suspect.

Ordering Weber manual today. Thanks again for the info.