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Body Guys: Is it ok to put body filler over POR-15

Hey all,

I need to seal up the welded area of my new flares, because it has shown to be a spot to flash rust. I was just wondering if it's ok to put filler over POR 15? I'll just seal it up with the POR and it will be good to go when I do the filler. That's the plan anyway...any issues with that?

Thanks.
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Old 09-29-2007, 10:26 AM
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I'd first check with their wedsite as to filler over POR-15, at least for proper prep. At least, you'd have to scuff up the surface a bit for good adhesion but I think it can be done--if not with bondo then with one of their products.
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Old 09-29-2007, 10:42 AM
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Do not apply filler on top of POR15

Filler's should only be applied to bare metal or on occasion light coats over epoxy primer then top coated with a sealer or surfacer(I do not even recommend that). Fillers absorb water and that is not what you want.

If you are sealing up welded area's I would prep/ condition the area down to metal and apply epoxy primer. I would then apply a color coat (this can be skipped to save a few bucks). Then apply Wurth SKS to the inside of the fender wells to the wheel well lip. The SKS applicator is spendy and can be substituted with Wurth Stone Guard which is available in rattle cans.
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Old 09-29-2007, 10:56 AM
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Hey Jeff,

What kind of color coat? Anything I have lying around until I sand it off when I'm ready? Can I rattle can any of this stuff?
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Old 09-29-2007, 10:59 AM
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What if, as a temporary fix, I applied some "rust remover" (which I think leaves a zinc coating if I'm not mistaken) and then just hit the weld area with some self-etching primer? Would that hold me until bodywork time? Or should I actually concentrate on doing the filler today?
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Old 09-29-2007, 11:18 AM
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Fillers can be applied over polyester primers because fillers are made with polyester resin.

Your welded seam should be sandblasted and primed immediately. No need to use galvy primer at this point. Self etching is good as a base. Do not sand through it. Some metal preps leave a chemical coating, some just clean the metal totally free of rust.

I'm going to respectfully disagree with Jeff about the "or on occasion light coats over epoxy primer..." concept. Yes, fillers work well over rough scuffed and pristine clean bare metal, but many body guys use it over primer successfully. Some primers will take it better than others. As I said, poly primers work for me.

I have agree with the thin layer part, though. No need for thick fillers on any car. Work the metal.
Old 09-29-2007, 11:28 AM
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I am on the side of being able to use filler over epoxy primer, but I would think by the time that you are at the primer stage, the coats ought to be awfully thin....if you have more than a slight skim required, you probably have not done your metalwork well enough.

Main thing I encourage is to use the same brand of products and then follow their instructions. I personally use Sikkens, but some have used Glasurit with apparent success and I hear that other companies are attempting to create good paints...DuPint or someone like that (Very Big smile at this point).

Anyway, a paint system works as the manufacturer has made sure that things are compatible. In the case of Sikkens, they have a metal prep primer, a good epoxy high build primer, a chip guard a la the Wurth products and of course the normal colour stuff. They have fillers that you can apply over the epoxy as well as other products for higher fill than primer but less than filler thicknesses....

I have never had a problem using a system, but have had several when mixing and matching....my fault definitely, but still it was a pain...

Dennis
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Old 09-29-2007, 12:08 PM
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Read the POR-15 website

CAN I USE BODY FILLER OR PUTTY WITH POR-15?
Yes. First paint both sides of the rusted area with POR-15; then use body filler or putty as soon as the POR-15 is dry to the touch.
Old 09-29-2007, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milt View Post
Fillers can be applied over polyester primers because fillers are made with polyester resin.

Your welded seam should be sandblasted and primed immediately. No need to use galvy primer at this point. Self etching is good as a base. Do not sand through it. Some metal preps leave a chemical coating, some just clean the metal totally free of rust.

I'm going to respectfully disagree with Jeff about the "or on occasion light coats over epoxy primer..." concept. Yes, fillers work well over rough scuffed and pristine clean bare metal, but many body guys use it over primer successfully. Some primers will take it better than others. As I said, poly primers work for me.

I have agree with the thin layer part, though. No need for thick fillers on any car. Work the metal.
This is why everyone likes Milt. He is so polite even when he respectfully disagree's. How can you not like him? I wish the world had more folks like him.

Back to our regular programing.
If this is to buy time until bodywork day arrives I would still media blast the area and then epoxy prime it. If you have even a small compressor this can be done inexpensively at home. Go get a hand held sand blaster with the integral hopper, they look like a Star Trek ray gun. Go to your local powdercoater/ blaster and pickup a 50 lb bag of Starblast (DuPont). Short bursts around the area will be sufficient to clean any flash rust or pitting off for the time being. You can use a metal conditioner but is optional. Clean the area with wax and grease remover or lacquer thinner then prime. Use a proper respirator for both blasting and priming. 2 part epoxy primers do not come in rattle cans so you are still going to have to buy that along with the activator.

If your car is still assembled and body work and paint are planned for the future use cardboard to cover/ mask any glass. The media will go through paper like -well you can imagine and pit glass badly.

If you cannot do the 2 part epoxy primer then your alternative would be etching primer or other 2k primers. Etching primer can be found in spray cans. Not all etching primers are alike. Avoid the cheaper lacquer type that the local auto parts sells because they about the same as Krylon. Wurth part# 0890-91700 is a good product. If you do the etching primer then I would use a metal conditioner first. This will only buy time. Etching primer is used mainly for adhesion of other top coats and is not a sealer. Moisture will get thru it if it sits long enough. You probably will still get some flash rust underneath so do not be suprised. If the car is in a garage and not exposed to rain or ocean air then this Bandaide will suffice for a bit until you can do it proper.

One last thing. For media blasting by all means wear a hood with a lens. Otherwise its gonna hurt!







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Last edited by Jeff Hail; 09-29-2007 at 03:52 PM..
Old 09-29-2007, 03:46 PM
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POR 15 makes a two part epoxy putty for use over por 15. I am only putting this out as a fact, and not reccomending it for anything.
Old 09-29-2007, 04:08 PM
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