Winter storage for 1979 911 SC

[catomn]

I just moved with my 911SC from California to Minnesota and it's facing it's first winter. It's barely seen rain, let alone snow, it's very original so I decided to store it. Problem is, I only have a few days to get it into storage. What is the minimum I can do to preserve it over the winter? Do i absoultly need to get an oil and filter change? What do I HAVE to do?

I am clueless here so very much appreciate any advice. Thanks!

[livi]

Welcome to the forum!

Please, try the search button. You will find endless threads on the subject in the archives.

[javadog]

First, find a place to store it that is warm and dry. No rodents would be a plus.

An oil change would be nice. For sure, fill the gas tank with good quality gas and add Stabil, or other fuel stabilizer. Air up the tires to the max cold pressure listed on the sidewall, or, better yet, put the car on jackstands. Cap the intake, exhaust and any other places rodents could try to make a nest. Depress the clutch pedal and insert a short length of wood between the pedal and say, the front of the seat track, to keep it depressed. Put something in the interior to absorb moisture. Disconnect the battery and put it on a battery tender.

There's other stuff to do but, for me, this would be a minimum.

JR

[emac]

JR
The best piece of advice is to add the Sta Bil. Some might not agree but I swear by that product. My question for you is, why should the clutch be depressed?

[javadog]

Sometimes, the clutch disc will stick to the flywheel. In the spring, you might depress the clutch pedal and the clutch won't disengage. It can be freed, but sometimes it can be a pain to deal with.

JR

[Formerly Steve Wilkinson]

I store my SC in a good barn in New York, but rodents are inevitable. I have tried everything--no need to go through the details--but this year, I think I might have found the solution: it's an impermeable, zippered, SC-size bag that you drive the car into and zip up. Comes with four or five big dessicant bags that you throw in first, and you of course make sure you drive into the bag a totally dry car, not one still dripping from its pre-winter wash job or whatever.

They guarantee that the car will come out in the spring in exactly the same condition it went in.
Cost me about $240 including shipping. Bag is of excellent quality, heavy, not just a piece of crap with a cheap zipper on it, and it comes with complete instructions. (Yes, there is a specific procedure...) Go to www.carvaluesplus.com

[catomn]

Thank you - i appreciate the help - sorry, i'm a bit clueless with these forums too. thanks for taking the time to reply

[tonythetarga]

As far as the gas stabilizer goes, and sorry for perhaps stating the obvious, but put it in the tank and make sure you drive the car a few miles to make sure the stabilizer gets completely into the fuel system.

[Zef]

Fresh oil change...full of fuel with Stabil...And let this sleeping beauty alone....Ho..And post some pics of that sleeping beauty...tradition is tradition...And welcome aboard..!

[CMDR Perry]

Catomn, I live in a northern suburb of MPLS. My car goes in storage just before Thanksgiving. I use a full can of Seafoam as stabilizer in a full tank. Again you should drive the car 25 miles to get it moving through the system. I then wash the car, pump up the tires, place it on tire dollys and slide it into the 3rd stall. Once in place I disconnect the battery, crack the windows 1 inch and put a cover on the car. Thats it and it always starts right up and runs just fine in April after 5 months of slumber.

[theclaw]

How can you not tinker with her all winter? Mine goes on the lift, gets an oil change, interior cleaning, once over for anything that doesn't look right. Maybe an upgrade here and there.

[CMDR Perry]

Jeff it depends. My garage my is not heated or spacious but I managed to replace all rubber bushings and upgraded the torsion bars last winter. Also my kid plays hockey so that eats up a lot of free time on the weekends. Doug

[Wickd89]

What, driving season is just starting!
I am actually planning a drive from OC to Monterey to play some golf.
Just have not decided to do it in Nov or Dec....

I would move back to California and drive it year round (minus the fires, but those are almost gone, cross our fingers)...

On a serious note:
1. Disconnect the battery (I use a knob from California Car covers or Ebay)
2. Engine stabalizer. Some gas companies say that they are not needed, but what the heck.
3. Tires. Have no idea.......(jacking sounds like a good option, at least for the heavy rear)
4. Car cover to avoid build up of dust.
5. Also to avoid moisture build up in the interior, Home Depot sells some little rocks in a small tub that suck up the moisture. Great for damp closets and such. I would put that open on the car floor.

Best of luck and enjoy your time out there!

[theclaw]

Originally Posted by CMDR Perry

Jeff it depends. My garage my is not heated or spacious but I managed to replace all rubber bushings and upgraded the torsion bars last winter. Also my kid plays hockey so that eats up a lot of free time on the weekends. Doug

Tell me about it. Soccer, TBall, Basketball. I never get done over the winter that I think I will. This year I need to clean up the wheels, new shift bushings or a Wevo, reinstall the heater ductwork, send the calipers to the plater (dont ask why).

[Doug&Julie]

I'll add a couple of suggestions...search for Battery Tender Plus...I used one for mine and the car never lost charge and fired right up after sitting for five months. Also, I parked on carpet squares...it actually helps with the flat spots. (Most people suggest rolling the car once in a while to avoid them, but I had good success with just parking on carpet squares.)

Somewhere there's a good thread on storing your car over winter. I'm surprised it hasn't popped up yet this year...it's getting close to that time.