What is the proper reemer for the door hinge bushings?

[Zeke]

Mine has a lot of taper, can't be good. Anyone ever purchase one of these? Where and what do I ask for?

[Norm Faustino]

Here's one.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/reamers.php

[TimT]

You need a "straight flute reamer"

Do a search in McMaster-Carr

Something like this would do the trick

Always have a problem with links to Mcmaster..

search "reamer" then look at "replaceable blade expansion hand reamer"

[john walker's workshop]

mic the pin.

[fintstone]

8mm. It is really a pain to do with the bushings installed. I recommend you buy new ones and have them machined before installing them.

[Zeke]

I have them new. That's why the reamer (sorry for the misspelling in the title). I also have a lathe. You're saying I can mic the pin and carefully bore them out for a perfect fit?

All I know is what I've read here before.

[fintstone]

yes...but you need to carefully press them in afterward as not to damage them. I used a bolt and nut with washers on either side...and just tightened the nut until they were in.

[jsbc]

Hi fred
pins are 8mm hand reamer has lots of taper, machine reamer none .Why do you need to ream any thing?You mention bushings ? my hinges have nothing but hinge in them no bushings .
But i digress, machine reamers are (paralell) all the way up hand reamers are taper for 30% of length if the bushes were a lot apart then you would need a guided reamer for perfect fit but this is getting into the realms of f-----g stupidity just for a porsche door hinge and if this is all you have wrong with your porsche then you are a very lucky b-----d.you lucky bugger.

[fintstone]

jsbc
I think that if you look closely, you will see that you also have brass bushings pressed into the top and bottom of each of your hinges. I cannot imagine that you or a previous owner has removed them as they are very difficult to drive out. Without any, there would be so much slop that you would have to lift the door a couple of inches just to close it..and the pins would likely fall out. IMHO, in most cases the bushings are really not worn enough to warrant replacement and will make little difference...and are a real pain to remove, however; once removed...they have to be replaced for the door to operate properly...and the pin will not physically fit into a new bushing without some sort of machine work (or reaming) because the hole is too small...as they are designed to be custom fitted to each car. Personally, I have not been able to remove a bushing without damaging it...so reuse after removal is likely out of the question.
Good point on the differences in reamers. If using a hand reamer with a significant taper, one would simply ream the top bushing in each hinge from the top the bottom bushing of each hinge from the bottom to solve that problem.

[Zeke]

My hinges on my replacement door are toast. And since the half containing the bushings are riveted to the door, I have no choice but to replace the bushings. I think I would have designed this the other way around, but I can see a detriment to each form of design.

BTW, the pin won't fall out if the bushings are worn completely sloppy. It press fits into the knuckles of the other half and becomes stationary.

[fintstone]

Yes, I guess you are right about them not falling out (been a few years since I did that job and was speculating/poor memory)....but it would sure be sloppy without any bushings at all as someone posted above. I found it very difficult to ream them once installed and recommend sizing them prior to installation. Good luck.

[Zeke]

Originally Posted by fintstone

Yes, I guess you are right about them not falling out (been a few years since I did that job and was speculating/poor memory)....but it would sure be sloppy without any bushings at all as someone posted above. I found it very difficult to ream them once installed and recommend sizing them prior to installation. Good luck.

Good luck is right. Won't they deform a bit upon installation?

[fintstone]

Mine did not. You could probably tap them in, but I pressed them in because I was also concerned about deformatiuon. The pressed right in. I made a tool from a piece of threaded stock with a flat washer (about the same size as the bushing outside diameter) and nut on either end. I did them one at a time. I slowly tightened the nuts until the first bushing was seated and then repeated with the second..

[Zeke]

Excellent! I will do it that way. Just like a rear wheel bearing, but I would have not thought of that.