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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 11
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Firstly, my thanks. The knowledge level here is unusually high which reinforces my decision to work on Porsches. This is my first one and a blast.
Beautiful straight car that I bought for $3K (non-running). For prices in CA (perhaps everywhere for that matter) I think I got a steal. Older gentleman had let the car sit for 6+ years. But the climb was/is steep to get her healthy. Short history: Purchased in Orangevale, CA and towed to Bay Area (my folks place, or more importantly, garage space). Dad and I spend months trying to troubleshoot non-starting issue. Finally -- through the help of the P-Folks -- found the control plunger (for the CIS) stuck. She started right up. Car retained an old UNGO box (security device). It appeared half-way uninstalled so I tracked down the old owner of UNGO (since resold the company) who still works on these old systems. He suggested to either (a) clip the sucker out or (b) send to him for repair. Opted for (a) but continue to have an electrical drain. My Dad and I completed a whole slew of other tasks (not in this order). (1) Alternator Rebuild (2) Starter Replacement (3) Valve Adjustment (4) Oil Change (Multiple - as suggested) (5) Master-Cylinder Rebuild (6) Pedal Cluster Rebuild (7) Timing/Idle Speed Setting (8) Bled/Replaced Brakes - Rebuild calipers (9) Oil Return Replacement (10) Control Plunger fix (which started up that beast!) (11) Smog Pump reattached (12) Points (13) Adjusted Fuel Mixture (Richened) Since this time, I purchased a house (or again, more importantly, garage space). I want to get her to the point of being reliable. Truly driveable. That goal has been as of yet, unattainable. Problems: Still getting electrical drain somewhere. Car starts up. Smokes like hell. But I plan on cleaning engine/mufflers in hopes it's just burning off oil on these parts. Drives, but hesitantly. (a) idle jumps around, a lot when cold, a great deal less when warm (b) when applying equal gas or deaccelerating in 1st-3rd gear car jerks pretty bad . . . but handles higher speeds well. Plan? This is where I could use some help. (1) My thinking is to use multi-tester to trace electrical problems. From reading on this board there is no other way than to be slow, methodical, and use flow-diagram. Does anyone have electrical/flow diagram for 1976 911S? Know where the heck to find one? (2) I'm thinking that the car hesitates and jerks due to a fuel delivery problem. Fuel pump is making a "gurshing/gurggling noise". And the lines probably need replacing? Thoughts here??? (3) Then it's just a question of testing out the rest of the car to see what I'm dealing with. Purchased Wanyne's 101 Projects yesterday. Plan on doing compression check. What else do you think? I will post pictures tonight as I know all to well that that's a "new guy" requirement. And thank you all in advance for whatever advice you might offer. Anything and everything is appreciated. |
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Designer King
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Toronto, ON Canada
Posts: 5,499
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Congrats you you and your father. Sounds like you're definitely on your way. The search function here and the wealth of knowledge on the board I'm sure will be a great help.
As you probably know. fuel problems occur in these CIS cars when they are not driven. Always try the low cost, easy, obvious things first, like draining old fuel, checking to see if the tank is clean and rust free, changing the fuel filter, adding new fuel, and then starting it up. Certain CIS components, especially the WUR, are particularly critical for correct starting, warmup and running. You should verify your control and fuel pressures w/ a CIS gauge. If you buy the Bentley manual for the SC you will still find a lot of info pertinent to your car. You can also check the fuel delivery pattern and delivery of the injectors. Make sure your dwell angle is within spec w/ your new points. Using a dwell meter is best. Check your wires and plugs. And make sure your dizzy moves freely, w/ the shaft snapping back to normal after the rotor is twisted. Check for vacuum leaks nad make sure you have an airbox popoff valve installed. Good luck!
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Paul Yellow 77 Sunroof Coupe/cork interior; 3.2L SS '80 engine/10.3:1/No O2; Carrera Tensioners; 11 Blade Fan; Turbo tie rods; Bilstein B6; 28 tube Cooler; SSI, Dansk; MSD/Blaster; 16x7" Fuchs/205/50 Firestone Firehawk Indy 500s; PCA/UCR, MID9 Never leave well enough alone Last edited by Paulporsche; 10-08-2007 at 10:05 AM.. |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Los Alamos, NM, USA
Posts: 6,044
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I have a 1976 911S; once you get their issues sorted out they are great cars. They are the last of the "visceral, non-ponderous" production 911's; power brakes showed up in 1977.
The best reference in terms of information per dollar is the Haynes 911 manual; it contains a black and white but usable wiring diagram for the 1976. Next buy the small Porsche technical specification booklet for your year and of course obtain an owners manual if you don't have one. If you haven't already done so, drain out all the old gasoline; there is a drain plug in the bottom of the fuel tank labeled "Benzin" - it has an inside hex; you can make a tool to fit it out of a couple of metric nuts and a metric bolt. A sump screen is also mounted to the plug and you can carefully clean it while the plug is out. Replace the fuel filter in the rear engine compartment. CIS parts are very expensive to buy/rebuild so don't swap parts to fix your problems. Instead buy a CIS pressure tester rig (~$100) and manual and properly troubleshoot the system. Many running problems of this model are wrongly attributed to the fuel system when the real problem is ignition. The timing and dwell should be carefully checked again and I strongly suggest new spark plugs (NGK's work fine) and if you can afford it, new sparkplug wires (no, the OEM type with the outside stainless wire mesh are not needed). Given the vintage of the car I would strongly recommend the rubber sections of the brake lines be replaced (they are not that expensive) and the brake system be rebled. Replacing fuel lines is a good idea, they are likely 31 years old. Start with the rubber ones but plan on them being expensive like $500 (for the OEM set not including the rubber coated nylon lines from the fuel distributor to the injectors). The pressure line running front to rear through the car is NLA. Since you are in California I assume the thermal reactors are still in place? Do you know if any engine cylinder stud replacement or valve guide replacement was done in the past? Does the car still have the five bladed engine cooling air fan? Cheers, Jim |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Los Alamos, NM, USA
Posts: 6,044
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 11
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Paul & Jim - Indebted for your thoughts. I think the shared sentiment with the CIS guage is a worthwhile one. I'll purchase one of those. Haynes/Bently manual also sounds necessary. Will invest $$ in that too.
PAUL - I agree with vaccum leak comment. Have read horror story posts on that. JIM - I especially appreciate your comment on wrongly attributing problems to fuel when it's indeed ignition. In fact, until I read your comment I was going to focus all my energies on fuel storage/accumulation/delievery. In answer to your last questions . . . no thermal reactors not in place. I do not know if any engine cylinder stud/valve guide replacement was done. But the five bladed engine fan has been upgraded. I'm going to pay particular attention to your comments and start the repair/updating work. I want this baby reliable by spring (fingers crossed). As far as obligatory pic. Can't find the file or my camera. Tonight I hope to reflect something tangibly aesthetic. (Or would it be virtually aesthetic?). |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Los Alamos, NM, USA
Posts: 6,044
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If you do not have the thermal reactors in place (along with the air injection system, EGR and vapor recovery system/canister) you may not pass the California emissions visual inspection.
Thread with images of thermal reactors: Are these thermal reactors? |
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