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Drop engine to adj valves (86 3.2)

Attempting to do my first 911 valve adjustment....I've done numerous 356s, various other cars in the past, so it's not the job itself that I have a problem with, but man those intakes are impossible to get to! I must be getting old, I used to do things like this just for the fun of it! Am I nuts to think it might be easier to drop the engine to do this?

The exhaust valves are a piece of cake, but I'm having a real tough time with the intakes. I do have the tool and I bent the blade up pretty good last night, luckily I bought extras. I may go in the garage tonight and give it another shot, but what do you guys think? Anyone dropped the motor just for a valve adj.

The car had a new clutch about 40k miles ago so I have no excuse there. I could take advantage of the drop to replace the crumbling sound pad (or just remove it) and detail the ending compartment, but I'm already missing driving it.

Can you remove the motor solo? I've done it before on 356s in no time, but again that was a few yrs ago, and that motor is alot smaller. Time to search the archives I guess...

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Old 10-25-2007, 04:48 AM
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Yes, it is truly an inspiring DIY project.
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Old 10-25-2007, 06:00 AM
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just pull off the air box the heater fan and the the ac compressor then they are fairly easy to get to. just disconnect the ac bracket and swing the compressor out of the do not disconnect the hoses. no need to drop the engine. My turbo on the other hand I had to drop it about 6 inches to get to the drivers side intake valves.
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Old 10-25-2007, 06:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken911 View Post
just pull off the air box the heater fan and the the ac compressor then they are fairly easy to get to....
Some of us don't ever put that crap back on
Old 10-25-2007, 06:08 AM
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I did the same thing Keith did, backdate the exhaust then get rid of the engine blower and ac. But if you don't want to do that then do as Ken suggests. Once those two pieces are out of the way it is much easier to get at the intake valves.

I have always, like many others on here, dropped the engine by myself. Not that difficult at all.
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Old 10-25-2007, 06:26 AM
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I have removed the a/c and heater blower and still having a hard time..I guess it's not that I can't get in there, it's that I can't "see" anything. Do you have to do the intakes solely on feel? I'm tempted to just use the "feel" method just rocking the rockers back and forth...

For you guys that have dropped a motor solo - what are you looking at, 2-3 hrs start to finish, or am I being optimistic?
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Old 10-25-2007, 07:05 AM
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Never dropped one solo, but me and a buddy dropped mine in a little over 3 hours this past weekend. That also included removal of the CIS and airbox to clear the las little bit upon removal.
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Old 10-25-2007, 07:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul T View Post
For you guys that have dropped a motor solo - what are you looking at, 2-3 hrs start to finish, or am I being optimistic?
First time including setting the valves? All weekend.
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Old 10-25-2007, 07:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul T View Post
I have removed the a/c and heater blower and still having a hard time..I guess it's not that I can't get in there, it's that I can't "see" anything. Do you have to do the intakes solely on feel?
Yes, it's mostly by "feel" (for me anyways, on both the intakes and exhausts). I may use a mirror, etc. to "kind of see" what I'm doing initially, but then it's "driving blind" ! I loosen the nut (if necessary, and it usually is), slide the blade in, then tighten the nut, while checking the resistance on the blade. Why don't you give it another try before you decide to drop the motor...while that would make it easier, it's certainly not necessary.
Old 10-25-2007, 07:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KC911 View Post
Yes, it's mostly by "feel" (for me anyways, on both the intakes and exhausts). I may use a mirror, etc. to "kind of see" what I'm doing initially, but then it's "driving blind" ! I loosen the nut (if necessary, and it usually is), slide the blade in, then tighten the nut, while checking the resistance on the blade. Why don't you give it another try before you decide to drop the motor...while that would make it easier, it's certainly not necessary.
Yeah, I will probably take a deep breath and try again. I suppose if I loosened each one to get the feeler underneath that would help on the intakes, I just have a problem with loosening a valve that might be fine to begin with! Maybe I need to have a beer first - that's never a bad idea

Kurt V - I meant 2-3 hrs just for the engine removal, not the whole job.
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Old 10-25-2007, 07:52 AM
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Instead of trying to feel around for a 0.1mm gap, I suggest you loosen the gap to 1mm, then you can find it and adjust it back to 0.1mm.
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Old 10-25-2007, 07:52 AM
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insert the tool in against the spring retainer, drag the feeler gauge up a tad until you feel it click into the crack between valve stem tip and adjuster foot, then gently wiggle it in. requires some dexterity, as it doesn't always want to just slip in. leave it in there as you loosen the nut slightly and do the adjustment. looking at it directly really does you no good, as it's all by feel anyway.
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Old 10-25-2007, 08:15 AM
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I haven't attempted this yet but see it looming on the horizon..was hoping the "Go-No go" method would be somewhat less of a hassle. ???
Old 10-25-2007, 08:26 AM
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Thanks John, I'll try this. I'm hoping to get time later this afternoon to take another crack at it..
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Old 10-25-2007, 08:27 AM
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Yup, what yelcab1 said....loosen 'er up to make the gap big and you'll find it easily. I don't need to do this anymore though...I made a little mark in my feeler guage tool where the handle meets the top of the studs that hold on the valve covers. Now I can leave them tight, insert the tool down to where the mark meets the top of the stud, rotate it and it slides right in!
Old 10-25-2007, 08:28 AM
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Once you get the feel of it, #3 intake is really the only @#&^%$#%&. A mirror can help, but you probably just need to stand back, rest your back and have a swig of beer,

ianc

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Old 10-25-2007, 09:07 AM
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