Bent Engine Cross Bar
 

Hi folks,

Was thinking to replace my engine mounts this week, but stopped once I started bending the cross bar. A couple questions for the wise:

1) Is it unsafe for me to keep driving with a slightly bend cross-bar? (one is about to be on order)

2) When I try to take off the mounts again, if the cross-bar breaks how will I ever get the bolt out? It seems I'll be royally screwed if that happens.

3) Can I replace the cross bar without a partial engine drop?

Thanks guys - I hoped it would go better. I've been PB'ing it on top all week, and WD-40'ing the bottom (it has a tube), but to no avail.

Bummed,

Babak

if it breaks, it breaks. really nothing you can do to prevent it, other than anti-sieze when assembling. you can't get visegrips on the round end to hold it. you can get them on after the engine is lowered though. a good weld job or a new crossbar is in your future.

Rear mount? I have one sitting on the shelf.....

Just went through this. It will likely break next to the weld and will come out when you remove the motor mount. Put it in a vise. To put the new one in I lowered the engine a couple of inches and slid the new one up between the muffler and bumper, in over the tin and there you go. Ken

BTDT Also. To answer the original questions:

1) I probably wouldn't drive the car now that it is weakened.
2) New mount, new bolt(s).
3) Probably. Just lower in an inch or so. What year car? I've had the cross-bar out and changed the pulley without dropping the engine.

BTDT, broke both ends. Not hard to replace. Use antiseize next time.

Btdt???

I haven't seen a late crossbar to know if there's enough meat to remove the threads, then use a bolt, washer, nut arrangement like the early crossbars. But if there is, there you go.

The factory arrangement is a little silly in that there's no convenient way of holding the threaded end while loosening the bolt head w/a BF flex handle.

Sherwood

I just replaced my re-enforced stock engine mount bar. I forgot I had this done years ago. I put in one of the Rennline stainless steel units. I'll be looking to sell my old one, but I won't be able to get it sent until after my trip to FL.

Thanks for the great tips guys; as I understand them once I (in all likelihood) break the cross-member I should be able to pull the bolt/member-bits out with the engine-mount. Otherwise, a couple-inch engine-lower is in my future (I don't need to disconnect any tubing or anything for that, do I?).

Thanks so much; really, the greatest thing you guys give me is the confidence to tackle these sorts of things.

Babak

PS John, thanks for the offer but I've already ordered one! I went with the traditional.

Thanks for the great tips guys; as I understand them once I (in all likelihood) break the cross-member I should be able to pull the bolt/member-bits out with the engine-mount. Otherwise, a couple-inch engine-lower is in my future (I don't need to disconnect any tubing or anything for that, do I?).

Thanks so much; really, the greatest thing you guys give me is the confidence to tackle these sorts of things.

Babak

PS John, thanks for the offer but I've already ordered one. I went with the traditional.