Help Wheel Bearing ? on 71 911T

mhunter · 10-22-2007, 07:07 PM

Hi guys,

This is the first time I have changed a rear wheel bearing on my 911T 1971.

So far I have removed, Castle nut, Brake caliper, pads, and emergency brake cable.

I still need to get the hub out. My question to you is?

After removing the flange nuts around the outer and inner CV joint, how do I get the CV joint out of the control arm. On that model, do I have to remove the entire control arm, or does the CV join come apart? The CV joint seems really tight in there and I don't know how to get it out.

I appreciate your assistance. Thanks

mh

mhunter · 10-22-2007, 08:53 PM

After reading the threads about CV joints, I guess after you remove the four bolts the 8mm bolts, the shaft is suppose to come loose. On my CV joints they are so greased up, I think it will take a little more muscle to pull it apart from the shaft. I hope this is right.

boxsterman · 10-22-2007, 09:35 PM

Referring to Pelican's part view for your car (item #6 is the bearing):

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/PartsLookup/search.cgi?command=show_page&Catalog_Name=911_USA_70_73_KATALOG&Illustration=501-00&Line_Item=6

In order to remove the hub (item #10), you need to remove the drive axle, inner flange(item #12) and the bearing cover (item #7). The inner flange is the part that attaches to the CV/Drive axle.

It looks like the bearing has two separate inner races. The hub is probably tightly bound to the outer inner race. Assuming this is similar to my 1976 911, you can use one of this:

You can get this from Harbor Freight (item 5223). But it's not available from their online store.

mhunter · 10-23-2007, 05:56 AM

boxsterman,

So part #12 comes apart at #13. Its really stuck on there. i don't want to ruin my axle. Do I pry #12 off of the CVjoint? Thats my main problem right now.

Thanks for you input.

mh

boxsterman · 10-23-2007, 06:55 AM

If you can't separate the flange (#12) from the axle assembly (#13), then it's probably odd grease or the gasket sticking. After you have removed all (4)CV bolts, see if you can use a long utility knife to separate the gasket. Remember there are 2 guide pins between the CV and the flange.

Tim L · 10-23-2007, 07:07 AM

What I do is remove 12 an 13 together by disconnecting the axle shaft from the transmission

mhunter · 10-23-2007, 08:33 AM

I guess my problem is that it seems like there is not enough room to push #12 out, unless it comes apart at #13. I'll try a little more force today, I just didn't want to bend anything.

Tim L · 10-23-2007, 09:55 AM

I think you should just disconnect the axle from the trans and get it out of the way. Then when you reinstall it connect 12 and 13 before you install the axle.

mhunter · 10-23-2007, 10:41 AM

Tim,

I'lll give it a try at the transmission. Thanks for the response. Its always nice to have some confidence.

I can't wait to try the homemade bearing removal tool that this board invented. I found all the parts at Homedepot and Orchard Supply Hardware. pretty cool.

mh

Tim L · 10-23-2007, 11:03 AM

When you reinstall the bearing cool the bearing in the freezer and heat the aluminum carrier with a torch. This will eliminate the chances of the bearing binding while pressing it in; the bearing will just slide in. This I learned the hard way

rexav8r · 10-23-2007, 11:15 AM

Don't forget there are roll pins in there that line the CV joint up 1) with the tranny mount and 2) with the stub axle. They also keep the CV tight to the stub axle and tranny mount.

There is a regular paper gasket (though with the grease you may not be able to see it's there) on either side of each CV joint.

To get mine off I had to take one of thoe tiny screwdrivers and press or tap it into the gasket wiggling it back and forth then prying the CV off with a bigger screw driver.

mhunter · 10-23-2007, 11:22 AM

Thanks,

I wasn't sure if I was suppose to pry them off. That was my first assumption, but then when I saw huge they were if I messedup I thought I better ask.

rexav8r · 10-23-2007, 11:32 AM

If you look at that diag. you can see the two roll pins sticking out the end toward the stub axle.

Be careful to pry evenly around the whole CV joint, starting on both sides...

mhunter · 10-23-2007, 12:01 PM

Is it difficult reassembling the CV joint when re-attaching the spline and CV joint? I plan on repacking the boots and changing the gasket since I'm sure i'll destroy it while removing it.

I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks for your help.

rexav8r · 10-23-2007, 12:10 PM

I did it about two years ago, but I don't remember it being very difficult. I think that the allen screws that you use are long enough to pull it together, just tighten them evenly. I had a thread going at the time and I seem to recall the guys that are a LOT smarter than me telling me to be sure the allen screws are fairly new or in very good condition. They are a specific grade (aviation rated) metal or something like that. I haven't heard of any cases of them braking, but it sounded like others had...

See if someone else chimes in..

mhunter · 10-23-2007, 01:54 PM

Hey, I got the CV joint out. Came out just like you said after you pry the gaskets off. Now I have to get the tool to remove the Hub.

Thanks guys

mhunter · 10-25-2007, 09:46 AM

I just wanted thank you guys. I got the hub out, and the wheel bearing out with the home made too.

The 1" washers did bend so I'll be replacing those with thicker ones for the other side.

I was about to rent a slide hammer at Autozone for free. What a deal.