Front Lowering Question
 

I just did a whole suspension refresh on my Targa which include bigger T-bars. In trying to get the front ride height somewhat set before I get it aligned, I have some questions. I want it a little lower than the sky high height it was. So I had to reindex the cap by jacking up a wheel and sticking the cap on again. I understand that you are supposed to turn the adjuster CCW (loosen) to lower the car. If there is no weight on it the adjuster backs out. Why can I turn it CCW and it doesn't back out when the car's weight is on it?

When you, reader, jack your car up....what does the adjuster look like? Is it touching the stop? I didn't look at this before I took it all apart and now I'm confused.

The adjuster bolt is supposed to stay in contact with the stop at all times.

To start over, put your car on jackstands, back out both adjuster bolts completely. Pull caps and both torsion bars and reinsert them. Then put the caps back on approx. at the midway point on both sides. Now reinsert the bolts and screw them in until they hit the upper stops and STOP. Let the car off the jackstands and drive around the block. Now adjust up or down as needed, but remember if the bolt ever looses contact with the stop you have to reindex all over again.

Ulrich

Thanks, but the first time I did it, I had the caps in the middle and the car was way high. When I loosened the adjusters they came out. Now the tab points downward and I had a lot more adjustment, before they came out but still did. I guess I'm going to really have to jack the wheel and slip this thing on, eh?

Earlier today I installed Sander 22 mm front torsion bars (there are no markings for left or right side, by the way). I indexed the splined end caps with the adjustment arm as level as possible. The driver side could only be set either one spline above or below level, the other side installed exactly level. Then I rechecked the setting against "101 Projects For Porsche 911" by Wayne Dempsey where it states ---

"Now, place the adjustment lever back into the end of the torsion bar. Make sure that you leave as little clearance as possible between the adjusting arm and the inside top of the cross-member. Thread the adjustment screw into the adjustment lever, and then follow adjustment guidelines explained in Project 55."

Installing the cap as quoted above seems like it would be the correct way, in that the adjustment screw would be in constant contact with the inside top of the cross-member throughout the adjustment screw's full range. My car is at full droop with the wheels and struts removed, but with the sway bar attached at the control arm and disconnected from the two cross-member brackets. Tomorrow I will try the way it says to install in the book.

So, I wonder which install method is correct?

Please post what your results are. Mine are 22mm as well and just putting it back together with the cap in the middle and no jacking of the wheel resulted in 27" at the fenders. Jacking and slipping on the cap made a lot of difference, however I probably shouldn't have set it with the cap tab at the bottom of the range.

The screws don't always stay in contact with the crossmember. Depending on how stiff your bars are and how low you have your car you may have more travel in the struts than you have spring in your torsion bars. The main thing is to have enough travel in the adjuster screws to set the height where you want it and to have both sides the same so your corner weights are correct.

-Andy

So it's ok if they don't touch when I jack it up? As long as they touch on the ground I assume.

Yes,

It's important that they both touch at the same time. In other words as the front is lowered off the jack (car going down level side to side) the adjuster screws touch at the same height. If one touches first then that side will be loaded more. The car could still be level when you are done with the opposite rear being loaded more to keep the car level. This would be a car that has it's corner balance off.

-Andy

Oh that's quite possible. I replaced everything. I'm just trying to get in the ballpark so I don't have to pay $$$ for ride height settings when I get the alignment done. Thanks

Just to be sure.

The front torsion bars must be adjusted with the car at static height. That is, on the ground. Without the adjuster screw in place, the cap travels all the way down to the stop with the suspension loaded. Not sure how you're able to have a gap and still have the adjuster threaded in place unless it's still in the air.

The trick is to find a mid-spline position so the cap has enough up/down range in either direction.

Sherwood

Yes, it has been jacked up. I sent you a PM, Sherwood.

Thanks

Here's my situation regarding suspension make over - 1987 911 3.2

Front is lifted and level on two jack stands. Wheels, struts, tie rods removed. Sway bar attached at each end at the A arm, but detached at the cross-member. I installed 22 mm torsion bars and then indexed passenger side adjuster arm level in the cross-member. Driver side adjuster arm could not be indexed level, so I set it 1 spline above level. Both adjustment screws contact the pivot point at the underside of the cross-member frame. Here's my question -- Is the level set close enough that I can move to the next step in reassembly? If not, what next.