engine drop-jack
 

Hi,

Do you think that this jack would be the right tool for my first engine drop?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1193339533.jpg


TX,

dede

yes, i use the same one, but with a 2x4 grid like # to cradle the engine case, and a floor jack to support the tranny. i have a late '83 without sump plate. i use a scissor lift to lift the car off the motor, do my work, then lower the car back down. R&R takes about 3 hrs of messin'.

I also use the same one. I have found it to be OK, but not great. You can do the same with a nicely designed 2x4 cradle (which you will want with this as well) and a regular floor jack.

When I picked up mine, I was very excited for my next engine drop as I thought it would be much easier with this jack, but it wasn't any different. With the one you have shown, you have to pump it up with the foot pedal and to release it you have to use the handle to turn a small screw on the hydraulic cylinder. Not very convienient compared to a standard floor jack.

I do know people who swear by these, which is why I bought mine. I just haven't been as enamored. YMMV

Dave,

do you have a picture of the cradle you use?

Tx,

dede

Nope, sorry. It is still in development stage.

I can post one this weekend as I need to get it done to get my engine back in.

Best,

I did mine like this...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1193341393.jpg

Here is the thread to my first drop:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/310898-here-goes-1st-engine-drop.html?highlight=DaddyGlenn

No.

I dropped my engine with a similar jack, a "Craftsman" ATV jack.

The first thing is, if you do it with the exhaust in place, the handle of the jack hits the exhaust.

Second, that jack doesn't extend high enough to reach the engine when the bottom of the rear bumper is at the correct height, which is 32" high. 32" high is WAY up in the air but necessary if you want to pull the engine out full height from under the car.

Lastly, with the engine sitting on a piece of plywood on the jack, it doesn't raise high enough to allow you to put your P201 on and slip the P201 into an engine stand. The high-lift jacks can do this.

My next drop will be with a high-lift jack with the engine adapter. I have balanced my 500# engine on a stack of wooden blocks once, which is exactly one time too many in my life.

I used the same method as daddyglenn (I also read his thread before I started)
I also removed the rear bumper just so I wouldn't have to lift the car so high, that part scaried me a bit.

Jay

Engine removal
 

I use the same jack, but I welded 4 6" tubes vertical and than 2 3" angle iron
30 inches long, that way I just reach the engine in up position when the car is on jack stands. Than I just lower the jack and it is low enough for sliding out.

In raise position it makes an excellent engine stand.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1193342997.jpg;

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1193343025.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1193343065.jpg

I'd weld some diagonals to tie those weak puppies together REAL fast!!

jack stand
 

those so called weak puppies are 1" thick walled square tubing, welded all the way around and the angle bracket is welded on both sides.
I actually had a V8 on it and no problems, including transmission

Fritz,
Thanks for sharing pics of your modified drop jack. I too am a little nervous with the setup. The hindsight meter says the 1" square tubing could be have been longer, so the weld could continue the entire leg of the right angle material or even welded to the other side of the angle iron leg.

In addition, a piece of thick plywood to join the two angle pieces could provide more stability to the independent extensions, help spread the load as well as avoid marring the heat exchangers.

I understand customizing this for a flat six eliminates it use to also support a SBC, so take this advice from the bleachers FWIW.

Sherwood

Um... I just used a plain old AL jack from HF and a custom piece of wood to balance the drive train... Cake... Though, I have purchased one of those cycle jacks as my regular one does not have enough lift to make pulling the engine off the engine stand a safe motion. Will be nice to have a 2nd jack around.

-Michael

Using ATV jack for engine drop.......
 

I just bought one of the aluminum Sears ATV jacks. It has a max lift of about 19 inches. My plan is to raise the car part way up, Do all the dis-connecting (except for the engine/tranny mount bolts and then lower the car so that the engine and transmission are supported by the ATV jack. Pull the mount bolts and lower to ground. Once the engine/transaxle are on the ground I will finish raising the body to the necessary height to allow for pulling the drivetrain from under the car. That way, I won't have to work under a (potentially) wobbly chassis. Installation will be the reverse order, raise the car to max needed height, slide drivetrain underneath, lower the car to a comfortable work height and then raise the drivetrain into place. The "anxiety" level should be much lower this way!! A set of 6 ton jack stands will be used to hold the back of the car at the max height. Maybe not a perfect plan, but I believe that it will work.

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