installing wheel bearing

mhunter · 10-26-2007, 07:03 PM

Today i tried to install my wheel bearing (Fag). I froze it for two days, and then tried to tap it in , and use the tool I built to press it in but it went in crooked. I used the tool to pull it out. Is the bearing ruined?

It seems like installing the bearing takes a lot of force. Is that true?

Tomorrow I'll try heating the control arm with a torch.

mh

Quicksilver · 10-27-2007, 06:09 AM

Throw the race in the freezer for half an hour and throw the hub in the oven for half and hour an 375 to 400 degrees. (or until golden brown!

)

Use some welding gloves to put them together quickly. The race should drop right in.

Quicksilver · 10-27-2007, 06:12 AM

Wait...

Control arm? Are you talking front or rear? The rear requires that you press it in using either a special tool that forces it in straight or a press that should also insure that it goes in straight.

Jim Sims · 08:13 AM

"I used the tool to pull it out. Is the bearing ruined?"

Removing a rear bearing usually damages it; the prudent thing to do would be to get a new bearing.

Yes, force is required to install the bearing. The force should only be applied to the outer race; never the inner race. Use either a pull type installation tool with an inner spindle or rod that passes through the bearing and arm or remove the arm and use a shop press. Heating the housing (the bore in the arm) and chilling the bearing can assist installation.

When reinstalling the hub; pull it into place using the spindle nut. Do not pound it into place.

Gunter · Gunter's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by mhunter

Today i tried to install my wheel bearing (Fag). I froze it for two days, and then tried to tap it in , and use the tool I built to press it in but it went in crooked. I used the tool to pull it out. Is the bearing ruined?

It seems like installing the bearing takes a lot of force. Is that true?

Tomorrow I'll try heating the control arm with a torch.
mh

Better details, please.
Control Arm?
The rear is the trailing arm.
If you are at the rear, Jim said it.
Even with heat/freezing, I would use a little antiseize grease
(The high temp one, like bronze Neverseize)

mhunter · 10-27-2007, 08:45 AM

I think my problem yesturday was that I was using the homemade tool wrong to install it. I was cranking the bearing in on the outside like when you remove the arm, instead of pulling it through the inside. Lucky I have an extra bearing.

These bearings look very durable. I don't see how they can get messed up from the inside, but thats what every says, so I'm not going to take a chance. Even my old bearings did not look that bad. I think I am going to buy a brand new CV Joint since I'm in here. I don't really want to do this again except on the other side.

Thanks for the info. guys. I've got the bug in fixing my car. Its been about 60days since I started on rebuilding this car. I started tearing out the interior, and replaced it with new interior from Pelican. And then put new racing seats and harness. Replaced all fuel lines, fuel filter, changed oil. Installed front new brakes. Now on my rear wheel bearing, and new CV joint. Probably need to put new bilsteins in there too. I don't think I've driven more than 50miles since all this work. I think I'll probably take a break for a while. But I want to express my sincere appreciation to you guys on new projects.

"If you ever get bored with life. Restore an old Porsche" its been challenging guys. Cheers!!!!