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first engine drop - clutch prob
Hi all,
Thanks for guiding me trough my first 911 engine drop. It took me 3 hours completely on my own...here is the pic http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1193590340.jpg The reason for this engine drop is my "sticking clutch " problem: engine and tranny cold, the clutch don't gets disengaged. After 50 m driving everything is OK. This is what I found after dismantling the clutch components: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1193590613.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1193590730.jpg Rusty splines, wear on the TOB outside has touched the guide tube, wear on the inside... What do you think? Tx, dede |
Complete new clutch components, I recommend the light-weight sports package.
New cable. New guide tube and seals/O-ring in the transmission. New seal for the input shaft. Good time to change transmission oil. New main seal (Engine) If the flywheel needs a grind, consider making it lighter by machining portions out of it. I think Henry Schmidt, or Steve Weiner, does it? A re-balance, of course! |
clean up the rust and examine the splines carefully - prob. ok. see if you can post a macro pic that is in focus (borrow a camera?; more light; tripod)
obviously it was w/o grease -replace TO bearing and typical 'while you're in there' type components - bush sand surface rust off of PP - examine clutch disc for wear - check flywheel surface - maybe just replace the clutch cable anyway best to have 2 adults to put motor back in how is the clutch pedal actuation itself? |
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Yeah, nice country and I remember Spa and Porsche-racing.
Should have been more precise. I mean H. Schmidt and S. Weiner could provide details on how to lighten the flywheel. There was a post showing how sections of the flywheel were machined to reduce weight. I'll do that next time the engine is out. |
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