Help!, just installed carrerra tensioners

I finished the right side and everything went smoothly. When I got to the left side and secured the chain pressure, pulled out the old tensioner, replaced the spacer and the new carrerra tensioner when i noticed a gap of about 1/4" between the spacer and the tensioner. Looks like a spacer or washer was left out from behind the sprocket pulley. Is there supposed to be a spacer behind it? I can slide it back & forth without much resistance. This is probably what caused the original tensioner to fail....advice as to what's next. Can I pull this pulley sprocket combination without screwing up the cam timing?

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Shakenbake (Chris Baker)
1974 911 Coupe
'91 "A" stock champion WV
'90 SCCA FTD
'99 SCCA 3x "A" stock winner

Chris,

Are you installing a double-bushing chain wheel carrier? It sounds like you aren't, and that the old tensioner was the post-'80.5 style tensioner and that no spacer was ever installed. My recommendation would be to get a pair of the double-bushing carriers before finishing up your installation!

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

Warren, the chain wheel carrier is stock as far as I know. There was a spacer that is the same size as the ones that came with the kit (on the outer side of the chain wheel carrier). Is there supposed to be one on the engine side as well? I had no trouble with the right side, everything lined up and no play. When installing the left side was when I noticed the gap between the spacer and the chain wheel carrier/tensioner. I'm not sure what the parts diagram shows for the inner side of the carrier. I stopped all work and I'm waiting to grasp a clearer understanding of the carrier mounting assembly. I will probably take your advice on the double bushing carrier, but I'm curious why this wasn't a problem on the right side???

Chris

Chris,

Take a look at these two diagrams:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/911/911_Parts/1978-83/1-3-2.JPG
http://www.pelicanparts.com/911/911_Parts/1978-83/1-3-3.JPG

There aren't any spacers behind or in front of the sprocket carriers ... when the carrier and tensioners are matched. I don't remember whether the difference between old tensioners and new was 10 mm, or whether the 'thickness' of the tensioner that slid over the spud went to 10 mm with the double-bushing carriers, but in any case, spacers, if your sprocket carriers are 'old-style'
single bushing, would go on after carrier and before tensioner. Maybe you should pop the cover off the right side and take another look!

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

Chris, I seem to remember about 1/4" play on the left side of my '83 when I did the update too.

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Robert Stoll
83 SC
83 944

Robert, what did you do about it?

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Shakenbake (Chris Baker)
1974 911 Coupe
'91 "A" stock champion WV
'90 SCCA FTD
'99 SCCA 3x "A" stock winner

I drive it.

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Robert Stoll
83 SC
83 944

Chris,

I beleive there is a procedure for alignment of the camshaft sprockets with the drive sprockets on the intermediate shaft. If I am understanding you correctly, the camshaft sprocket has front to rear play in it.

If that's the case, than you need to place spacers on the cam shaft either behind or infront of the camshaft sprocket to ensure the chain is properly aligned with the drive sprocket on the intermediate shaft. According to the haynes manual, tolerance should be no more than 0.01 in (0.25mm)

Steve

Steve, the chain tensioner pivot lever and sproket are the source of movement. it was not noticeable when pressure from the tensioner was applied. When I pulled the old tensioner off and the spacer, replaced the new spacer and tensioner, tightened down the 13mm nut and noticed a gap between the tensioner and the spacer of about 1/4".
Chris

Ok, the sprocket that provides the tension for the chain shouldn't be of concern. I thought you were talking about the sprocket on the camshaft.

Once the tensioner is tightned, the sprocket will float on its shaft and should automatically align up.

Steve

Ok, just finished installing the carrerra tensioner , went to put the cover on and the top of the cover has 2 holes that are approximately 1/2" thicker than the other holes. What gives? The studs don't even come all the way through. Am I going to have to replace the studs at the top or is this the wrong cover? The part # is 930.105.105.3R

Chris

Chris,

No, you have to fabricate two studs and replace them.

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

Here's what I'm talking about:







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Shakenbake (Chris Baker)
1974 911 Coupe
'91 "A" stock champion WV
'90 SCCA FTD
'99 SCCA 3x "A" stock winner

Yes, all the covers since '84 look like that!

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

Thanks Warren, that's what I was afraid of. I didn't see this mentioned in any previous posts. Any suggestions for type of metal, thread count etc? I'm guess I'm going to go get a metric die set and some metal rod...

Chris

Chris,

Just go to a local hardware or auto store and buy a couple of standard M6 x 50 mm grade 8.8 bolts and cut off the heads with a hacksaw. Lots easier than threading! Dress up the ends with a file, run a nut on and off a couple of times to make sure it is clean enough, and you are ready to install, after double-nutting the old studs out of there ... might want to warm-up the surrounding metal with a propane torch before removal to soften the thread-locking compound!


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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

Thanks Warren, I'm out the door to my favorite hardware store...hopefully they will have it.

P.S. I really appreciate your help!

Chris

Yeah, those two missing studs are a hassle arn't they!
It shouldn't have been too difficult to include those in the kit..
I used a length of M6 threaded stainless rod that was laying around. The holes in the covers are larger (m8?) but I simply used larger washers under the nuts. This works fine- no leaks at all. The other thing that can be a bit confusing is the orientation of the oil line support brackets. Take a look at the pelican tech article with pictures for the correct methods.
Doing this mod for the first time can take a while, as most of the effort goes into working it all out seeing how it fits into place. I recently had cause to dismantle it again to check out a rattle, and it came apart and back together in about two hours. (rattle was from elsewhere, frustratingly!)



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'72 911 TE

Just a thanks to all. I got the m6x50mm bolts, cut the heads off. Got the old studs out with ease, new ones in, lines hooked up, recheck tightness of all fittings, add oil...wait with baited breath as I turn the key.....vroom, vroom. What a relief. Just got in from a 20min drive. Got up to operating temp...nice whirrring sound from the tensioners. Got home, checked all fittings for leaks (none from the new work, can't say as much for the other old minor leaks). Glad this is over, I'll sleep well tonight.

Chris

Congrats Chris, nice sound huh??

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Robert Stoll
83 SC
83 944